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Showing posts with label Guayaquil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guayaquil. Show all posts

Monday, September 12, 2016

Tamera's Take: Scarves, Cats & Nomads

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©2016 TJ & Tamera Overman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ReUse by permission only.

Tamera's Take is about being here.
Are you ready?  I am.

Before I begin, I need to say that it was a compliment that my husband borrowed my signature tag line, "are you ready", in his last post.

So we move forward.  Now I have borrowed his.

Las Grietas, Isla Santa Cruz, Galapagos
It is 9:30 am Ecuador time.  That's UTC-5:00 for you international readers.  In Jacksonville Florida it is 10:30 am.  When Daylight Savings Time comes around on Sunday, November 6, 2016 at 2:00 am, Crucita and Jacksonville will be on the same time.

It makes me feel a little closer to my loved ones back home.

What does "trouble maker" mean?
As you have read in my husband's recent blogs, some of our loved ones visited us in August. During their 10 day visit, we were treated to a trip to the Galapagos Islands for four days. Aside from a few minor stomach issues and some clouds, our time in the Galapagos was amazing. Upon returning to our house in Crucita we were greeted by our four cats and a not so fantastic story from our neighbor who was caring for them while we were gone.  Apparently one of the little darlings decided to hide in one of the guest bedrooms (upstairs) while we were loading our luggage into the truck at 3:30 am. At 4:00 am, the upstairs rooms were closed and locked.  Our cats (minus one) were downstairs, along with their food & water bowls, and beds. Our neighbor had been given a set of keys, cat food and instructions (in Spanish), the day before. We were off for Guayaquil airport.

I will make the long and excruciating story short by saying, our neighbor Maria was worried after a day went by and she only saw three of our four cats.  I only gave her keys to the downstairs and the exterior gates. Luckily she knows our landlord. The house was opened. The wayward monster kitty was scared but okay...after making a mess that cannot be described.

In the future, I will never ignore my instincts - which told me to check the entire house for a "cat count" before we left.

One cool bag, one strange hat
On Pandora Radio, I am listening to: Madonna "Just Like a Prayer", which was released spring 1989. 

I do not even have to look up the year this song was released. I know the year because forever in my memory is my four year old daughter dancing and twirling around the house, with her hair brush microphone singing that very song.  She may not have known all the words.  She certainly did not know the MTV video that caused so much controversy.  All she knew was that she loved to sing and dance.  Especially when momma sang and danced with her.  Her momma loved that too.

People close to me know I love wearing scarves.  They are my favorite accessory.  I know every way to wrap, twist and tie them.  They seem to work for me.  In any season.  Any time of day.  What is not to love?! If it is raining - cover your head.  If it is cold - wrap around your shoulders.  Having a bad hair day or the wind is blowing - twist and tie around your hair. If you need a bit of color on a drab day - just pick one and go.  My daughter likes scarves too.  Although I think she is more of a hat person. She wears them well.

I do not see a many Ecuadorians wearing scarves in Crucita. No matter.  It is my thing. I do not feel the need to change that about myself.  Although I will say that I am now recognized by my fishing hat more than my scarves around here.  It is a simple tan cotton fishing hat. I have had it for nearly 15 years.  I wear it a lot.  I brought 6 scarves with me when we moved here.  I brought the hat at the last minute.

Two weeks ago I received all the confirmation I needed; in Crucita, I am recognized by that darn fishing hat.
The only ATM in Crucita

So here is what happened.

We needed cash to pay our utility bills and buy a few things from Frema's tienda.  Jason offered to walk to the ATM machine.  The ONLY ATM machine in Crucita. I do not try to use that machine any more.  It hates me. When I say it hates me, I mean that I cannot get it to work.  Jason has no problem with it.

The issue is that the machine "requires" your card (tarjeta) to have a chip in it.  Our Visa debit cards do not have chips.  Our bank and many others in the U.S. do not feel the need to put chips in their cards. I am sure it has something (everything) to do with the cost associated with updating software, and replacing machines.

When we first arrived in Crucita, we were told there was an ATM machine in our little fishing village. It is located at the COACMES building, which is a 10 minute walk from our house. The first time we tried to use it we realized that chip technology is alive and well in Ecuador. Good for banks and security. Bad for us. In order for us to use an ATM machine, we had to go to Portoviejo - 18 miles away.  There are ATM machines that will accept cards with or without a chip.

Bus ride to Portoviejo for cash.

We did this for 5 months.  Right up until April 15, 2016.  The day before the 7.8 Terremoto (earthquake) hit Ecuador.

Two weeks post earthquake, we were really in a difficult situation. No buses to Portoviejo. Even if there were buses running, it would not have mattered.  Most bank machines were not working. Most of the buildings that had ATM's were destroyed.  Portable ATM machines were set up, along with lines of people waiting hours to use them.

We mentioned our ATM predicament to a few of our friends and acquaintances here in Crucita and asked them what they thought we should do.  First they offered us money and asked if we needed food or water.  If we have not made this clear before, that is what it is like to be here in Crucita, Ecuador. People help each other. Not just in times of catastrophe - all the time.   No "once a year slogan" required.  A slogan that lost its true meaning so long ago, that everyone forgot.  I will let that one sit.  You will either get it or you won't.

We declined the kind offers of money and food.  We were not at that point yet.

We were told by two Ecuadorians and one Canadian friend that if you "keep trying", your chip-less card will eventually work in the Crucita ATM machine.

What?!

Stunned and with some amount of disbelief, we grabbed our cards and made the trek to COACMES (co-a-may). The Cooperativa building where the ATM machine is located.  Deep breath. Google Translate App open and ready on our cell phone.  The card slides into the machine.  It speaks to us in Spanish, telling us basically that the card will not work, and "please remove your card".   We remove the unacceptable card and slide it in again.  The machine speaks to us again. Please remove your unacceptable card.  We do.  But we try again; and again; and again.  After 15 or so tries, we see a different screen appear.  Press here for Espanol. Press here for English.  Woo Hoo!  English!!!  Please enter your PIN.  Those words never looked so good.  Please select Withdraw, Inquiry, Deposit.  Withdraw Withdraw Withdraw!!!!  Please select, Savings, Checking,....blah blah, whatever came after those selections I have no idea.  Savings please!!!  Enter the amount.  We enter 200.  We receive $200, in $10's and $20's.

Jason - Las Grietas, Galapagos Ecuador
Okay.  Back to my hat story.

As I said, two weeks ago Jason walked to COACMES, to withdraw cash.  He was gone a long time.  I knew this was not a good sign.  He returned about 45 minutes later with a look on his face that meant only one thing. The attempted transaction was not successful.  Two hundred tries not successful.

I asked him for my little blue zippered wallet that contained the bank card. He looked in his recently acquired bag from the Galapagos.  All Ecuadorian men carry these by the way.

No blue wallet.  He looked in his pockets.  No blue wallet.

My "wifey" panic sets in.  His calm standard response, "I know I have it; it's here somewhere".

Obviously NOT here somewhere, as my heart sinks, we make the trek together towards COACMES. We are now looking on both sides of the street, in the ditches, trash cans, etc.

I have already envisioned what must have happened.

On Pandora Radio: Adele "Set Fire to the Rain"


Sea Lions like the benches
After the absolute frustration of 200 attempts to make that card work in the ATM machine, Jason puts the near useless card into the little blue wallet belonging to his wife.  He then puts the wallet into his black bag that reads "Galapagos" on one side and "Ecuador" on the other. Walking away from the ATM machine, knowing that he and his wife will soon be on a bus to Portoviejo.

What really happened was he put the card into the blue wallet.  Then looking away he goes through the motion of putting the wallet into his bag and misses the bag completely.  The wallet falls to the ground in front of the ATM machine.  He walks home.

Fast forward.

We are nearing COACMES at break-neck speed.  I am wearing my tan fishing hat. I look up at a young man walking towards us. I recognize him.  He works at COACMES.  I know he recognizes me by that silly hat of mine.  Instead of the usual "buenos dias, or hola", he says, "tarjeta y bolsa azul". At the same time he is making the shape of a square with his hands.  He has just told us that they have our card at COACMES.

A bus ride to Portoviejo.

It would be the last bus ride with that debit card.  It expired September 1, 2016.  Where is my new card?  At my daughter's house in Jacksonville, Florida.  We are still working out the logistics of getting that card mailed to us from the United States.  That story to be continued in another blog.

La Ruta del Sol 
We have since retrieved our back-up card from our friend Tamy. She lives just outside of Portoviejo.  That card does not expire for another year.  We may only have one card, but at least we have a working card.

It is times like these that I feel more like a vagabond than an adventurer.  Maybe there really is not a difference. Its a good thing I have a lot of scarves and an awesome hat.

It seems to be the standard, basic apparel for backpackers, travelers and Europeans. We see a lot travelers who fit that description in Ecuador. Especially when we take trip on La Ruta del Sol (The Route of the Sun).  While we were in the Galapagos last month, I saw many more.  I fit right in. Minus the backpack.

Our move to Ecuador was my first real introduction to Hostels. They are everywhere. I knew what they were, but had never actually seen one.  In my ignorance, I assumed they only existed in Europe and used by teens and twenty-somethings who were trying to find themselves. I could not be more wrong. I cannot speak for other countries, but here, they are cheap, clean and a great way to save money on lodging while on your adventures. Regardless of your age.


I must admit that until a year ago, I owned a Frommer's Guide to Paris on $3 a day.

It was bought probably 30 years ago.  After time became dog eared, torn and revered with all the hope of a girl who thought she would get the chance to experience adventures.....one day.

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Saturday, August 27, 2016

The Arrival - A First Day in Ecuador

Are we Ready?  Finally!
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Time flies.  Our visitors from the U.S.A. or Estadas Unidos or EEUU as it is abbreviated in Ecuador were here for ten days.  I thought it would be long enough but as I said; time flies.

So, my mom #1 (yes I have a mom 1 and mom 2), dad #2 (yes I have a dad 1 and dad 2), cousin (I have many cousins!), and a new friend (now family) have departed Ecuador.  We had a houseful for the first time and it was great.  We also had many adventures such as the triple triangle, the drive through Portoviejo at rush hour, finding the airport in Guayaquil just in time for lunch traffic, and a cut through road to the desert.

Boat Repairs on La Playa
Those in the know are laughing right now as well they should.  You may be too as these next few weeks will result in you reading all about them.  Tamera and I learned we know more than we thought, we still have a lot to learn, and we know what it is like to drive and navigate in Ecuador. Fun and scary at the same time.  We got it down now. Yep!

Also, we literally have thousands of pictures from our travels as everyone's were downloaded to this (now damaged) laptop we use for our blog and everything else.

It was my intention to give everyone credit on their individual photos.  It is impossible due to the sheer number so all future photos concerning our visitors and consequent trip to the Galapagos go to Brenda Burkes, Linda Kerchener, Dottie Mullins, Ron Mullins, Tamera Overman, and well, me.

I know it is cliche to say "I'll start from the beginning so I will not say it.  I will just start shall I?


The Pick Up at Manta Airport
From the edge!  Our house has five bedrooms and five full bathrooms.  There are ten beds total, including trundle beds.  There is air conditioning in one bedroom while the rest have ceiling fans.  One of the bathrooms was damaged in the earthquake and cannot be used. We had four visitors coming.  Since my parents are used to air conditioning my wife and I moved out of the air conditioned bedroom and took the downstairs bedroom.  We are acclimated now and don't use the AC anymore anyway.  In August there is really no need and the fresh air is so much better anyway.  We washed all the pillows, sheets, and blankets in preparation.  My wife hand painted a welcome sign for them.  We swept (a must do every day), mopped, cleaned bathrooms, etc.  It really was not much as we don't utilize most of the bedrooms/bathrooms anyway.  We just wanted it to smell nice and fresh.

So our visitors had the entire second floor for their use.  It gets the best ocean breezes and I believe they were all comfortable the entire time.  If not, I expect to hear from them!


Our attorney (starting to feel a little Hunter S. Thompsonish referencing my attorney all the time) delivered our rental truck to us.  We needed the truck so we could take everyone into town for groceries, shopping, and sightseeing.  We also needed it for the drive to Guayaquil as you will find out later.

Mom and Dad arrived first after a four hour layover in Quito.  They came bearing gifts like the infamous peanut butter, horseradish, good old U.S.A. whisky, books, seeds for gardening, DVD's, Cheese Its (already gone), and other various sundries we can't get here, at least not easily.

My Cousin Brenda and I
We took them to our friend's restaurant, Motumbo for dinner.  They met our neighbors, Eduardo and Flores on the way and received a proper Ecuadorian fisherman greeting.  We ate a delicious beachfront meal and returned home. There are the normal questions about cocktail and tartar sauces (no, none here) and menu translation (the back is in English!).  We had to be up very early to pick up our cousin and friend so we returned home and spent some time catching up.  We were all tired anyway so after a quick tour of the house it was time for bed.

The next morning, mom and I got up.  We drove to Manta to pick up Brenda (cousin) and Linda (friend now cousin!).  We arrived as the plane did. No Brenda and Linda.  Hmmm.  They had an eight hour layover in Quito so they should not have missed the connecting flight. Right flight?  Check.  Right time?  Check.  Extra luggage?  Check.  Where the heck?  There they are behind us. How we missed them and they us I'll never know.  They had to run back to the tarmac as the airline was taking their luggage away.  Luggage?  Check.  The sun was coming up now so they were able to take in the mountain drive, farmland, and produce stands that dot the road to Crucita.  We arrive home and for the first time, we have a full house.  It feels great.

Locals Enjoying Fresh Coconut on the Malecon
Brenda goes upstairs to get some rest. Linda is up for the day.  These two flew in from Virginia and North Carolina and have been travelling a long time.  Linda somehow slept in Quito airport.  Linda has learned to sleep anywhere I find out later. I make everyone breakfast.  Home fries and frittatas with fresh green peppers, onion, basil (from the rooftop), and tomato.  Tamera makes some good strong coffee manually as our coffee pot decided to die on us.  Coffee is a necessity for all but one of us.  Do you know how much we miss Starbucks?

Brenda is up now and it is decided that our first real day will be a walk down the beach and a little tour of Crucita.  Photo ops are good and everyone is ready to start snapping!  We are anxious to show off our little town.  So off we go.  The sun is shining; a 50/50 proposition here in the winter and the water is turquoise.  Sometimes one needs to ease in to paradise so we do.  Brenda and Linda purchase mango with salt and lime from a street vendor.  We're moving slowly.

Time to get to Work!
There are fishing boats as always.  Crucita is after all, fishing village.  The mariposas (butterflies) are beginning to appear on their migration back to the north.  Moto Taxis are headed up and down the Malecon and the kids are on the beach on their siesta from school.  The Catholic school style uniforms are everywhere.Really everyone is just beat from travel and all the stresses that come with it.  We return home after a time and then on to Rimini for cocktails and dinner. Fresh seafood with family on the beach.

The Mural Art in Crucita and all of Ecuador is Outstanding
Lunches and dinners here are traditionally served with rice, fried plantains, and a little side salad with lime based dressing.  The family finds out what they like and don't like quickly.  For most, the plantains are not a favorite though Tamera and I like them very much.  No worries.  Just substitute french fries AKA papas fritas in most places.  The important thing is to try something new.  My family isn't scared to do just that.  Brenda, mom, and I agree on one thing, however.  We have to get a good steak at least once on this trip.  Will we find one?  See if we don't.  Chao!

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Tuesday, November 24, 2015

Moving Pets to Ecuador- The Most Fun You will Never Have

I said I would write about this and wish I had not.  I literally cringed when I hit "publish" after saying I would.  I'm sorry if this is confusing.  It is hard to organize in my head, hard to organize on the blog, and was hard to organize in real life.  Read this entire post.  Not because we took so much time writing it.  You need to know everything we have written if your pet travels with you.  If you have a specific question, do not hesitate to ask us.

We brought 4 cats with us.  Yes, Yes, I hear you.  Not crazy people.  Certifiable.  I understand but if they were YOUR pets- a little different right?  I hope so.

Blondie
The thing is, the process was not so bad.  The surprises, relevant charges, and lack of structured information were.  I cannot stress enough the changes that could happen every day.  Ecuador and the USA can and will change their import/export laws.  It can and may happen in mid-process.

We recommend you carry on your pets.  We did. Depending on the airline there will be different carry on rules and costs. Some airlines will not allow carry on pets.  The airlines that do allow carry on pets have a maximum kennel (pet carrier) limit per flight.  If you decide to carry on your pets, you must notify your airline's reservations as soon as possible.  Reservations will give you a Record Locator Number for each of your carry on kennels.  You must use kennels approved by that airline.  Your pets must be harnessed (cat or dog). No collars.  You must have a leash.  You are going to have to research flight specific information and requirements on your own.

I don't advocate putting pets in cargo.  Depending on the size of your pet, you may not have a choice. Bear in mind, the cargo area is not pressurized, there is no temperature regulation and no human contact.  Your pets will be under an enormous amount of stress and our airline would not allow tranquilizers.  We found alternatives in the form of calming spray and herbal calming treats. They worked very well.

Transporting pets in cargo could kill them.  Ecuador doesn't allow cargo transportation of pets unless the outside air temperature is below a certain point.  No Ecuador airline allows carry on pets.  You may need to fly into Guayaquil or Quito and use a private driver to get to your destination.  We had one drive us to Crucita from Guayaquil (4.5 hours).  He was from Portoviejo so his total round trip time was almost 9 hours.  He also had to wait 2 additional hours as our plane was delayed.  Eleven hours of his time, mileage and gas, cost us $165.00.

Zahi is upset after 21 straight hours of travel.
There are companies that will ship your pet for you, in luxury even.  They were all completely out of our price range.  Some seemed a bit shady.  If you go that route be careful.

Budget more than you have already.  Getting everything together to move people to Ecuador is tough.  Animals are tougher and more expensive.

This next sentence is very important.  As of 11/20/2015 the U.S. based Ecuadorian Consulate did not have to sign, certify, stamp or approve any paperwork in order for you to import your pet into Ecuador.

There are websites that offer to obtain your pet "passport" for you.  We found their information to be incorrect or outdated. You don't need them.

You must have a USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) Certified veterinarian.  Call and confirm.  Make them speak the words, "yes, I am a USDA certified veterinarian".  There was only one in our decent sized city.  Other vets told us they could fill out the documents.  Do not risk it.  Get the USDA certified vet even if you have to travel to do it.  It is going to cost you.  Get quotes up front.  Get your pet's records from the last veterinarian they saw.  Ask for discounts.  You may need them.  The vet we used gave us a CONSIDERABLE discount.  I mean a huge one.

There are only 2 USDA documents.  They are called the VHC (Veterinary Health Certificate) and the APHIS Form 7001. The VHC is country and species specific.  When you speak to your USDA representative they need to know the form is for US Export to Ecuador and whether you are transporting dogs, cats, or both.  Your USDA vet fills out and signs these documents.  The USDA stamps and certifies VHC for $38.00 per certificate.  Up to 5 same species animals can be included on 1 VHC.  Each pet must have their own set of these documents.  Each pet must also have their RVC (Rabies Vaccination Certificate) provided by your vet.  That's it.  No one else need be involved. I say this because apparently, you used to have to get the Ecuadorian Consulate to certify your forms prior to export from the USA.  There is a lot of information on the internet saying you do.  We did not have to.  We thought we did and spent a considerable amount of time and energy trying to contact the Miami Ecuadorian Consulate.

The rare and exotic Oscar cat.  He is always quite concerned.
Our vet recommended we have a separate folder prepared for each pet. Good advice.  Make copies of everything.  If you lose something it may help to have copies in the long run.

Call the USDA because they will know what current laws are.  There should be at least one office in your State.  Here's a valuable secret.  Choose the "I want to make an appointment" prompt and someone will answer.  They will even e-mail you the blank forms for the vet to fill out.  This is important because the local offices may have updated forms which are not yet on the USDA website (this was the case for us).  That means your vet will not have the updated forms either.

You must also call the EAQAA (Ecuadorian Agency of Quality Assurance and Agriculture) 72 hours in advance of your arrival.  Notify them by calling Ecuadorian phone number 5939 565 0556.  Tell them you are importing animals into Ecuador, your arrival time, and what airline carrier you are flying with.  They will ensure an Ecuadorian vet is there to inspect each animal, their paperwork, and pass them through Customs.

Kodak Attack!
Your pets require up to date vaccinations.  Even if your records are current, a booster may be required.  You may even have to get the shot and then the booster regardless.  Pets must be free of all internal parasites so your vet should test and then deworm anyway.  Pets must be free of all external parasites.  Your vet should apply flea and tick treatment themselves.  Another VERY important sentence.  You MUST travel within 10 days of receiving USDA certification.  Your travel reservations and vet visits must be coordinated with this in mind.

You should take the documents to the USDA yourself, not mail them.  You will need to make the appointment.  Remember the "I want to make an appointment" prompt?  Had we mailed them we would still be in the States because our USDA form was not formatted correctly.  The vet filled in one section by hand and the USDA would not accept it.  Had we mailed them, the documents would have been returned to us USPS (United Stated Postal Service) without stamps and certification.  We would have missed the 10 day travel window.  Since we were there in person, they corrected the documents themselves, stamped them, and allowed us to take them back to our vet for him to sign again.

I like the balcony momma!
That wasn't so bad, huh?  Well wait a tic. The airport can be tricky. Give yourself plenty of time.  The airline recommended we arrive 4 hours early and we did.  It very nearly wasn't enough time.  Luckily, our flight was delayed.  Wanna hear something really funny?  When we got to Guayaquil they passed us through without even a second glance at our cats.  We were told to expect 1-2 hours of "Customs" time.  We were through Customs in 10 minutes.  That will not happen for everyone and you still need your paperwork to leave the States.


At the time of this post, Ecuador would not quarantine your pet.  Pets who failed to meet their requirements were returned to their country of origin IMMEDIATELY!

Blogging with the Four in Ecuador.
That's about it really.  Actually, I'm kind of glad we did this.  A lot of frustration has been lifted.  The information we provided will definitely help you and yours get where you you want to be safely.  I truly hope this helps someone out there. We could've used it for sure.

I think it might be time for a bit of Rosetta Stone.  It's cloudy out.  Rain is forecast for tomorrow.  I hope the shrimp guy comes today.  For $4 a pound I hope he comes every day.  Adios!


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