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Sunday, January 31, 2016

Where to Eat - Restaurante Motumbo!

Questions? E-mail us!
Twitter - @JOTOinEcuador

We have now been here more than two months.  Before we left many asked us a very difficult question. What will you miss the most?  I will not restate the obvious things but there were other things, things I thought would be obvious.  These things were based largely on food.  Through internet research it seemed I would not be able to get certain items here.  Pizza, BBQ, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Greek, German, etc.  Even what I consider just plain old U.S. food which is mostly a myriad of international cuisines that have been fused with pure U.S fare. Will Ferrell lampooned our idea of cuisine in Talladega Nights.

Pure deliciousness produced by packs of wild dogs!
I know what you are thinking and I am not saying it is a bad thing.  Really, I am not. It is a great thing. In the United States you can probably get some form of any type of food you would ever want to try. All cuisine everywhere is based on what is produced locally and is at some point, fused with what is available through trade.  Tea, coffee, spices, fruits, vegetables, cheeses and meats.  We love food, and what is not to love?

As a U.S. citizen I also fell in love with everything easy.  I want hot, now and *cough* affordable. Okay in reality heat lamp warm, almost now and the illusion of affordable.

(Insert fast food restaurant name here), the next time you make a product that actually looks like one you advertise on television, let me know.  There is your next marketing campaign Fast Food conglomerates.  "Product on the television is actually larger and fresher than it appears."  But I digress.

David prepares someone's bill.
Good news.  The television is good for other things.  Food Network comes to mind.  HGTV, PBS, and the Travel Channel (No Reservations. My favorite!) also have great cuisine based shows.  The BBC does a great job with their culinary lineup.  There are even decent cooking shows on good old U.S. network television.  Why is that?  Because a growing number of people all around the world realize "heat lamp warm and almost now and the illusion of affordable" are all really just a big crock of old fryer oil out back.

It does not matter.  People get it.  You can go to your local Farmer's or even Flea Market and buy locally grown produce. This supports your local economy and you can get a week's worth of fresh vegetables for the cost of a number one combo. The vegetables even have smell and taste.  They have not been stored and "preserved" to death.  No dyes either. Just good food.

Even good, healthy, packaged food.  Not rice cakes!

Good, healthy (mostly healthy anyway) food. Yep.  People are falling in love with good food again. I am lucky enough to be in good food mecca.  They take their food very seriously in Ecuador.  It is not at all hard to find.  You can find it on the bus.  Yes, on the bus.  On the weekends it can be bought while sunbathing on la playa, delivered to your beach towel, parasol, or tent (carpa).  There is street food.  Very good street food.  Then there are the restaurants.  Italian, Japanese, BBQ, Steak Houses, Indian, etc.  We mustn't forget the Ecuadorian restaurants.  They demand respect. They stand tall with the rest of the world.  They are pure bliss.

Sometimes you just need something really, really bad for you.
I guess what I am saying is that I thought I would miss food and convenience the most, even that fast food stuff.  I guess I did miss it enough because I was a bad boy last week.  I broke.  I got mushroom and Swiss burger, large onion rings, and Coca Cola from Carl's Jr. in the mall.  It cost more than a full dinner at many Crucita restaurants.  The point is I am not missing anything because it is all here. There are however better or maybe just different foods around.  Definitely less expensive foods. 

Before I begin in earnest there are one or two important things to know.

First, the peanut (mani) figures prominently in certain sopas (soups).  If you have an allergy stay away from soup called "viche".  There is a possibility peanut allergies are moot here.  There is some question as to whether the way peanuts are grown/processed in the U.S. could be responsible for the allergy.  Should you decide to test that theory please make sure you have your up to date epinephrine with you.

Cerdo con Arroz, Platanos, y Ensalada. Look it up.  This plate? $7
If you are not feeling brave (or stupid depending on how you look at it) you may want to ask about any dish just to be on the safe side.  Have your epinephrine with you just to be on the safest side.  Second, most of the restaurants here serve their own version of the same things.  I know it might sound boring on the face but it is all done just a bit differently. Remember, people from all of South America live here.  People from all over the world live here.  All of our foods live with us in perfect symmetry.

Our friend Tamy told us it is impossible to say things like "this is the best ceviche around" because the next restaurant's will be just a bit different. Not necessarily better (though I think you will soon have a favorite) just different techniques, slight variations in ingredients, or perhaps both.  The result is a diverse dining experience no matter where you eat.  It reminds my wife and I of back home.  Every family has their secret recipe.  Aunt Sharon's Million Dollar Pie, Dottie's Best Chocolate Chip Cookies, Joyce's Beef Supreme, Nana's...well ANYTHING that Nana made!

Restaurante Motumbo on Calle Malecon.  Delicioso!
I think a very good place to start is the first place my wife and I ate ceviche. We chose a nice restaurant here in Crucita right off the bat; Restaurante Motumbo. I'd say we got lucky but in truth, we have not eaten at any place we would not go back to yet.  Restaurante Motumbo is a five minute walk from our front door.  There are literally ten other restaurants between our door and there.  That is only in the southern direction.  They are on every block in all directions.  We will try to get to all in due course.

It is an impossible dream but very convenient to my mind.

We chose Motumbo for it's beautiful hardwood rattan tables set out for alfresco dining on the Malecon, overlooking the Pacific.  We had nothing else to go on.  

The name Motumbo is also used by some as a "comedic" character.  The "stories" were further perpetuated by a 1990's Argentine rock band named Los Piojos.  There is a video and no, I will not link it.  This video has NOTHING to do with Restaurante Motumbo.  Investigate at your peril.  It is beyond R rated.  I say this to you for one reason.  If you search only for Motumbo you will most likely come across only the "comedic" information.  There is no Restaurante Motumbo website, though there there is an "unofficial" Facebook page

David and Denise supporting EMELEC!
Suffice it to say the owners David and Denise opened their restaurant after David spent many years working for a corporation in Quito.  He left the corporate business and opened his own successful soybean processing plant.  His products were instrumental in the creation of healthy school lunches.  In the process he invented revolutionary production equipment.  One thing lead to another and it was decided he would try his hand opening his own restaurant in Crucita.  Live the dream.  He met his wife Denise and the two started off on their new adventure together.  They were not sure they would succeed but being no strangers to risk, they took a chance.  They did succeed however, and the restaurant has grown.  I dare say they are more than happy with the result.  I know we are.

The name sticks as well it should.  You do not mess with success.  

On the wall behind the bar hangs the last neck tie David ever wore.  A reminder of why he is here. He will never wear another.  His favorite band is also represented in the form of a clock.  Pink Floyd, The Wall.  He saw Sir Paul McCartney's concert in Quito in 2014.  There is a collection of David's hats in the corner of the bar.  He admits that he loses hats constantly, but never, ever loses sunglasses. David is bi-lingual, friendly, courteous, and willing to talk.  His good nature is infectious and his staff follows his lead.  He and Denise work the restaurant together expertly.  A lot of gringos (not a derogatory term here) frequent Restaurante Motumbo because of these things.  A lot of Ecuadorians eat there as well.  It is authentic fare.

Busy Night at Restaurante Motumbo
Restaurante Motumbo is located directly on the Malecon.  The street (calle) is the only thing between you and the Pacific.  You may dine alfresco, inside the beautiful bamboo restaurant, or sit at the bar. Wherever you sit, the ocean breeze and the sound of waves crashing on the beach are with you.  It is open every day from 11:00 to 23:00.  The menu is bi-lingual and even has a glossary of terms so you can understand everything you're ordering.  As a bonus, his menu contains information on local and nearby activities, such as paragliding, bird watching tours, hiking trails, whale watching expeditions, and much more.  


There is good wine (not easy to find in Crucita, at least not yet) as well as a full bar.  Drinks such as a Pina Colada, an Electric Lemonade, or a Bloody Mary are not only beautiful but skillfully made. The bonus is they are made to order with fresh ingredients.  If you are at the bar they are made right in front of you. David will talk you through the ingredients of whatever he is making, even if it is not for you.  Sometimes you will be lucky enough to get a sample if there is a bit left over in the blender.  There are a number of non-alcoholic drinks and jugos (juices) available that are simply delicious.  Even milk shakes are on the menu.

Electric Lemonade!
The restaurant routinely serves seafood fare as do most restaurants on the coast.  Here you will find large portions of excellent ceviches and viches made with fish, shrimp, shellfish, or mixtas meaning a mix of two or more seafoods. Breaded and fried, pan fried, or baked fish and shrimp, pastas (award winning I might add), as well as chicken or pork dishes are always available.  Arroz (rice) comes with everything as do plantanos (plantains slow cooked, breaded, and fried).  Bolones are delicious. The ingredients are fresh.  The seafood and produce vendors come to him, as they do with all the restaurants, and on some days you will see the fish and vegetables you are about to eat purchased before your eyes.  

The entire staff can cook. The entire staff.  If David is not there another will cook.  It will be the same fresh and robust taste no matter what.  David has taught his staff to cook to taste.  OK. Maybe they learned from each other.  Maybe from their own family.  Remember I said they take their food seriously in Ecuador.  Nothing comes out of that kitchen unless it has been tasted and found acceptable.  The fry oil is always fresh.  The batter is delicious.  As with the drinks, David will share how things are made.  He has no secrets. You will find out things you never knew.  The man is well traveled, educated, and has four degrees. You are in good company.

Ceviche Pescado
As with most restaurants credit cards are not accepted here.  Cash is king in Crucita so come prepared.  The most expensive single meal on the menu is $14.  There is a seafood meal for two available.  The least expensive is $3 (a personal pizza w/drink).  Most dinners and ceviches run between $7 and $8.  A party of two can easily enjoy an excellent meal with appetizer and cocktails for $30 at most. The tip should generally be $1-$3 depending on service.  That $30 will buy a very big meal.


Bring your appetite!  Incidentally, that is also very good tip. 

Service is how you want it and this has generally been true everywhere we have eaten.  You can enjoy a leisurely meal and take as long as you like.  You can be in and out quickly.  It depends on you.  If you are in a hurry when you order, order everything at once. Remember, everything is cooked to order and may take a bit of time.

The Wall on well, the wall.
If you want something else, you must let the staff know.  They leave you alone to eat and drink.  They do not refill your water or drink unless you ask.  They do not hover.  It is not bad service.  It is polite.  A check will not be delivered to your table unless you request it but in reality, you should go to the bar and pay.  The bill will be tallied in front of you.  Give the tip at time of payment.  Do not leave it on the table.  At Restaurante Motumbo it will be shared among the entire staff and rightfully so.  They all had a hand in preparing the meal you just enjoyed.  

David tells us he and Denise are embarking on a new adventure.  They recently broke ground on a new hostel on the Crucita Malecon next door to their restaurant.   I know the word "hostel" makes us (or at least me) think "shared" amenities.  Sometimes even sleeping quarters are shared. David has cleared this up.  In Ecuador the term hostel also means small hotel and this is what they are building.

It will feature private rooms with air conditioning as well as private bathrooms.
They hope to have it open by July.  If they put as much love into this enterprise as they do in their food and I have no doubt they will; it will be a huge success.  Chao!

Questions? E-mail us!
Twitter @JOTOinEcuador

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