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Showing posts with label Manta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Manta. Show all posts

Saturday, August 27, 2016

The Arrival - A First Day in Ecuador

Are we Ready?  Finally!
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©2016 TJ & Tamera Overman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ReUse by permission only.

Time flies.  Our visitors from the U.S.A. or Estadas Unidos or EEUU as it is abbreviated in Ecuador were here for ten days.  I thought it would be long enough but as I said; time flies.

So, my mom #1 (yes I have a mom 1 and mom 2), dad #2 (yes I have a dad 1 and dad 2), cousin (I have many cousins!), and a new friend (now family) have departed Ecuador.  We had a houseful for the first time and it was great.  We also had many adventures such as the triple triangle, the drive through Portoviejo at rush hour, finding the airport in Guayaquil just in time for lunch traffic, and a cut through road to the desert.

Boat Repairs on La Playa
Those in the know are laughing right now as well they should.  You may be too as these next few weeks will result in you reading all about them.  Tamera and I learned we know more than we thought, we still have a lot to learn, and we know what it is like to drive and navigate in Ecuador. Fun and scary at the same time.  We got it down now. Yep!

Also, we literally have thousands of pictures from our travels as everyone's were downloaded to this (now damaged) laptop we use for our blog and everything else.

It was my intention to give everyone credit on their individual photos.  It is impossible due to the sheer number so all future photos concerning our visitors and consequent trip to the Galapagos go to Brenda Burkes, Linda Kerchener, Dottie Mullins, Ron Mullins, Tamera Overman, and well, me.

I know it is cliche to say "I'll start from the beginning so I will not say it.  I will just start shall I?


The Pick Up at Manta Airport
From the edge!  Our house has five bedrooms and five full bathrooms.  There are ten beds total, including trundle beds.  There is air conditioning in one bedroom while the rest have ceiling fans.  One of the bathrooms was damaged in the earthquake and cannot be used. We had four visitors coming.  Since my parents are used to air conditioning my wife and I moved out of the air conditioned bedroom and took the downstairs bedroom.  We are acclimated now and don't use the AC anymore anyway.  In August there is really no need and the fresh air is so much better anyway.  We washed all the pillows, sheets, and blankets in preparation.  My wife hand painted a welcome sign for them.  We swept (a must do every day), mopped, cleaned bathrooms, etc.  It really was not much as we don't utilize most of the bedrooms/bathrooms anyway.  We just wanted it to smell nice and fresh.

So our visitors had the entire second floor for their use.  It gets the best ocean breezes and I believe they were all comfortable the entire time.  If not, I expect to hear from them!


Our attorney (starting to feel a little Hunter S. Thompsonish referencing my attorney all the time) delivered our rental truck to us.  We needed the truck so we could take everyone into town for groceries, shopping, and sightseeing.  We also needed it for the drive to Guayaquil as you will find out later.

Mom and Dad arrived first after a four hour layover in Quito.  They came bearing gifts like the infamous peanut butter, horseradish, good old U.S.A. whisky, books, seeds for gardening, DVD's, Cheese Its (already gone), and other various sundries we can't get here, at least not easily.

My Cousin Brenda and I
We took them to our friend's restaurant, Motumbo for dinner.  They met our neighbors, Eduardo and Flores on the way and received a proper Ecuadorian fisherman greeting.  We ate a delicious beachfront meal and returned home. There are the normal questions about cocktail and tartar sauces (no, none here) and menu translation (the back is in English!).  We had to be up very early to pick up our cousin and friend so we returned home and spent some time catching up.  We were all tired anyway so after a quick tour of the house it was time for bed.

The next morning, mom and I got up.  We drove to Manta to pick up Brenda (cousin) and Linda (friend now cousin!).  We arrived as the plane did. No Brenda and Linda.  Hmmm.  They had an eight hour layover in Quito so they should not have missed the connecting flight. Right flight?  Check.  Right time?  Check.  Extra luggage?  Check.  Where the heck?  There they are behind us. How we missed them and they us I'll never know.  They had to run back to the tarmac as the airline was taking their luggage away.  Luggage?  Check.  The sun was coming up now so they were able to take in the mountain drive, farmland, and produce stands that dot the road to Crucita.  We arrive home and for the first time, we have a full house.  It feels great.

Locals Enjoying Fresh Coconut on the Malecon
Brenda goes upstairs to get some rest. Linda is up for the day.  These two flew in from Virginia and North Carolina and have been travelling a long time.  Linda somehow slept in Quito airport.  Linda has learned to sleep anywhere I find out later. I make everyone breakfast.  Home fries and frittatas with fresh green peppers, onion, basil (from the rooftop), and tomato.  Tamera makes some good strong coffee manually as our coffee pot decided to die on us.  Coffee is a necessity for all but one of us.  Do you know how much we miss Starbucks?

Brenda is up now and it is decided that our first real day will be a walk down the beach and a little tour of Crucita.  Photo ops are good and everyone is ready to start snapping!  We are anxious to show off our little town.  So off we go.  The sun is shining; a 50/50 proposition here in the winter and the water is turquoise.  Sometimes one needs to ease in to paradise so we do.  Brenda and Linda purchase mango with salt and lime from a street vendor.  We're moving slowly.

Time to get to Work!
There are fishing boats as always.  Crucita is after all, fishing village.  The mariposas (butterflies) are beginning to appear on their migration back to the north.  Moto Taxis are headed up and down the Malecon and the kids are on the beach on their siesta from school.  The Catholic school style uniforms are everywhere.Really everyone is just beat from travel and all the stresses that come with it.  We return home after a time and then on to Rimini for cocktails and dinner. Fresh seafood with family on the beach.

The Mural Art in Crucita and all of Ecuador is Outstanding
Lunches and dinners here are traditionally served with rice, fried plantains, and a little side salad with lime based dressing.  The family finds out what they like and don't like quickly.  For most, the plantains are not a favorite though Tamera and I like them very much.  No worries.  Just substitute french fries AKA papas fritas in most places.  The important thing is to try something new.  My family isn't scared to do just that.  Brenda, mom, and I agree on one thing, however.  We have to get a good steak at least once on this trip.  Will we find one?  See if we don't.  Chao!

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Sunday, April 24, 2016

The Day After - Of Rationing, Worry, and Hope

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*We have no pictures to post as there was no electricity and we were conserving our phones for calls if service came available.

Dawn.  Cool and calm.  There are no birds chirping.  No geckos croaking.  There is only silence. This is not at all normal.

No way to get information.  We can't know what is ahead.  We can only imagine and that is a walk through my head I do not want to take.  Want no longer matters here.  Need is the only thing that matters here.

My wife and I have foregone sleep.  It will not come until our bodies must have it.  We know that now.  Our minds are racing.  There are too many things to consider.  Too many DO IT NOW items that are essential for us to survive.  Step back and organize.  Pick one task and focus on that task. We are putting together our essentials grab bag in earnest.

Cash, passports, bank cards, vital paperwork, change of clothes, keys, drinking water, matches, flashlights, etc.  There is still no power.  Probably for some time.  We still have no way to contact anyone.  We might have gotten word out  to our families if we had minutes on our phone.  I procrastinated.  No minutes.  No word.

Now we turn our attention to water.  We have 2 gallons of drinking water in the dispenser.  Another gallon in our freezer.  Not enough for 3 days let alone the weeks it could be before we can get more.  The cistern.  The lid blew of it last night.  Is the cistern itself damaged?  How much water was in it?  How much is in it now?  We check.  It is almost completely full.  Properly rationed we have water for at least a month, probably two.  The water must be boiled before drinking though it is treated.  Regardless, we must be very careful with it.  Sickness will not do.  The only way to get the water is to lie down on the ground and lean into the cistern.  I am not comfortable with that. Aftershocks are still occurring.  It must be done.  I do it.  All is not as it should be.

Luckily, we have just refilled our propane tank. it should last six months with normal use.  I estimate 5 months when factoring in the amounts of water we must boil.  We will not have an issue there.

Food is next.  Generally, we live sparingly.  We are only two.  Tiendas and fish markets abound here.  We were lucky though.  A good friend has visited, leaving just days ago.  We stocked up on rice, beans, lentils, oatmeal, and other dry goods.  He brought me a huge jar of peanut butter too. The meat will not last with no refrigeration and must be cooked and/or eaten.  There isn't much. Shrimp, chicken, ham, and bologna.  There are no canned or frozen vegetables.  Why would there be?  We buy them fresh off of street vendors or from our tiendas every few days.  We have 8 limes, 4 green peppers, four red onions, garlic, 2 tomatoes, 1 and 1/2 loaves of bread, butter, 6 eggs, plenty of spices, salt. and 2 apples. We have enough food altogether to last for 14 days.

Cash.  Here is a problem and a very large problem at that.  We did not go to the ATM yesterday.  No ATM's working now.  Not here anyway.  We have $24 dollars to our name.  In the bank?  Enough.  On the credit card?  More.  Can we use them?  No.  When will we be able to?  Where will we be able to? We have no idea.  When will we know?  We must spend this $24 wisely.  Will there be price gouging?  I don't know but I think there will.  Maybe not for locals but for gringos?  I think so.  I do. This is the scariest thing in my mind.  How will we eat?  If prices stay as they were $24 could easily buy another month of food  including feeding the cats, if we spend and ration properly.  If they don't we might be in real trouble here.  What if we can't leave the house?  What if there is looting and rioting?  We will wait and see.  There is no alternative.

Now we know we are in decent shape.  It is not great shape but I fear it will be better than many other's.  Will people try and take what we have?  We are gringos in a poor country not our own. Everyone here is so nice but if my kids were starving I would do anything.  So would anyone else.  I do not want my wife scared but we are a team.  She has to know.  I say it out loud.  She already does.  She is smarter than I am.  I am smart enough to know it.  This is nowhere close to perfect.

The church bells are ringing.  Why?  We can see the steeple from here.  The cross from the steeple is not there.  Oh, yes.  It is Sunday.  Church is in session.  The first normal thing today.  It is most welcome.

There is nothing for it.  We are going to have to leave the implied safety of our eight foot concrete walls.  We must go out.  We need minutes for our phone.  We need to see whether anything is open. We must determine the disposition of other people and whether we will be able to buy food and drinking water.  Reconnaissance mission.  Best to do it now, early.  We have to buy what we can just in case there is none a week from now.

We're off.  Multiple tiendas are open against all odds; generators thrumming.  This could be good news for reaching our families.  We usually obtain phone minutes from these tiendas as you can't buy them online unless you have a credit card through an Ecuadorian bank.  There are two ways to get them.  The shopkeepers can add them themselves using a terminal or we can by a tarjeta (card). The cards are like scratch off lottery tickets.  You buy them and get almost the amount of minutes you pay for but, you could double or triple that amount with luck.  They cost $1 extra.  You dial them in from your phone.  These are our best bet as the terminals can't possibly be working. Three open tiendas.  No tarjetas.

They do have supplies however.  Good to know.  They are getting local deliveries from farmers too. Very good to know.  We will not starve.  We have time to talk about how best to spend our limited cash.  They are all out of water.  Not good to know.  Thank God for our cistern.  I hope it is not leaking.

Our short term survival is ensured.

Long term survival is at the plate.

We decide to sit down at one of the many covered benches that dot the Malecon.  The sky is clear, and the ocean is most beautiful.  Another piece or normality in an increasingly surreal day.  We discuss some things.  No one is on the beach with one exception.  A father and his toddler are splashing in the shallows.  They are here on vacation maybe.  Why doesn't matter.  The toddler needs normal.

No buses are running.  They are our primary form of transportation.  We wonder how Portoviejo, our personal major supply port has fared.  If it is bad will Manta be any better?   When will electricity be restored?  Are our friends OK?  We have only seen our neighbors.  Just then we spot our friend Fernando at Robert's Tienda.  He sees us too.

He is fine.  His wife Jessica, was away at the time.  She is OK.  Fernando was at church when "it" happened.  It was not good.  The roof came down on them.  Amazingly, no one was seriously injured.  He has water and food.  He hopes his wife can get home.  We tell him if he needs anything to let us know.  He asks if our family knows.  When we say no he says he will post something to Facebook when phone service comes back.  He has a few minutes on his phone. It isn't enough for an international call.  He needs what he has so he can stay in contact with his wife.  We would not dream of using his minutes.

We ask him what if any, news he's heard.  Portoviejo is bad.  He is going there if he can get there. He tells us the main road has huge cracks in it.  There are no buses today.  The road is severely damaged just before it reaches the bridge over the Portoviejo river.  This damage is no more than 30 meters away from our good friends Tamy and Jared's house.  We are very worried now.  Manta will be our only hope it seems.  He knows Manta suffered damage.  The Manta Airport tower.  It is a tower no more.  It is flattened.  Hopes for a working ATM are hovering just above zero.  We are off the edge of the map.

As we say goodbye Fernando tells us to be careful and vigilant.  He has the same fears we do.  We share the sentiment and are off.  Home.  We need to boil water.  I need to measure the water level in the cistern.  This will be a daily occurrence.  A leak could be devastating.

Home now.  It is past noon and is the hottest part of the day.  We are thankful winter is beginning. Just two weeks ago the hottest days of our time here accosted us.  March is the hottest month.  Now it is not only bearable, it is actually pleasant.  I cook our first ration of beans and rice.  There has been no sleep.  Maybe tonight.

BOOM!  Another aftershock!  Now another!  No damage, no problem. For now.

We eat and head to the roof to view the sunset.  It seems important somehow.  The sun is a golden orb, magnified by the atmosphere.  It is the most beautiful sunset we've seen here yet.  We turn to look over the mountains.  There is a magnificent rainbow in the clouds.  It is a huge half circle of wondrous color and light almost directly over us.  Breathtaking.  We hope it holds promise.  We hope it means life.  We hope.

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©2016 TJ & Tamera Overman, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ReUse by permission only.

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Friday, April 8, 2016

La Ruta del Sol - Route of the Sun - A Road Beach and Mountain Paradise.

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The Route of the Sun
I am a little bit sorry we have not written for a while.  Only a little.  We have our first ever guest staying with us for a time.
Our friend Rob also rented a car so we have been exploring quite a bit.  There are things you miss when riding the bus as we do regularly.  You can not just stop and take a picture when riding a bus.  You can only look out the side window.  You can not stop and eat tacos at a roadside restaurant high in the Andes.  Not without paying for the next bus which can get expensive.  The upside is we have taken a lot and I mean A LOT of pictures.

We have not had time to write but we have collected plenty to write about.  We are still collecting.

We have been exploring Ecuador's southern coast.  Jipijapa, Manta, San Lorenzo, San Mateo, Puerto Cayo, Puerto Lopez, Olon, Montanita (yes, again), and Manglaralto.  No we have not made it to Salinas yet.  We met some new friends last night that say we MUST go.  We will.

To explore this magnificent coastal region there is only one route.  Sur (south) or Norte (north) highway 15 on La Ruta Del Sol. A two lane road that follows the coast through major cities and many, many small and medium sized fishing villages.  There are mountains, scenic beach views for the tops of those mountains, bamboo forests, and huge cacti all along the way.  The view is always fantastic and there are so many stretches of wonderful secluded and unspoiled beaches it is amazing.

Polaca Canister
Stop at them.  If you are hungry and there always is a nice roadside restaurant, tienda, or food stand.  You will find some really nice surprises as our friend did.  The treat our friend found in Montanita is Polaca. 

Polaca is made by a small family company called Avena Poland.  They moved from Columbia around 2001 and started a Polish dairy.  Polaca is now found all along the coast and it is delicious.  Made from whole milk, sugar, vanilla, and oats, it is a creamy breakfast treat.


Drink it stand alone or put it in your smoothies, coffee, and cereal,  I am positive a White Russian or Pina Coloda would be totally amazing with this as an ingredient.

We have not found it in a grocery store.  It is bought off a truck out of a milk canister and sold by the cup or bottle.  It will now be a staple in our house.

So, not much writing but a nice new treat and a lot of pictures.  Enjoy all of them posted below. Chao!

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Friday, January 29, 2016

Tamera's Take: Everything's Eventual, Cats & Cell Phone Communication

Tamera's Take is about being here.
Are you ready?  I am.

Before any "constant readers" start plotting my death (and you know who you are), yes "Everything's Eventual" is the title of a book by SK.  Just as SK uses songs, life events and literary quotes to punctuate his stories, I am using his book title to punctuate my story.  How do I know he does this? Because I have been a constant reader for over 30 years.  I read my first SK novel while I was pregnant with my daughter.  The book terrified me.  I loved it.  I still read his books.

The rainy season has begun.
Anyway, I thought about using "The Cell", but that was too obvious.  Are we okay now? Good. Then I will continue.

Last week in "Octopus's Garden, Cats & Water Always Wins", I wrote about not having enough time to blog because of everything that has happened to us in the past couple of weeks. Eventually though you have to just suck it up, quit whining and write (or paint, or clean your house, or whatever it is that you need to do).

Stephen King said it.  He is right.
Eerily always right.

“Amateurs sit and wait for inspiration, the rest of us just get up and go to work.” 
― Stephen King, On Writing: A Memoir of the Craft


Roof Top Terrace
At this moment I need to move from the rooftop terrace that I love so much, and get out of the sun before Senor Sol burns a hole in my retinas.  It may only be 8:30 am but the sun is serious around here.  Downstairs I go.

That is better - sort of.  I have lost my view, the ocean breeze and the sound of tropical birds, but my eyesight is thankful that I relocated to the shade of the first floor patio.

The view from the roof was especially beautiful today.

Our Beige and Sage Colored Mountains
When we arrived in Crucita late November, we were told that the rainy season starts in December and continues through February or March.  November is the end of the dry season. That was evident. Everything was dusty and dry. There are mountains along the coast of Crucita. They were beige with tinges of sage green here and there.

We looked forward to the rainy season so our mountains would turn green. December came and went. Where was all that rain we heard about?  


Beautiful Rocafuerte

A few miles inland everything was green. We know this because we visited a number of towns in the Manabi province during the past two months.

Portoviejo, Charapoto, Rocafuerte, El Pueblito, La Boca, San Jacinto, San Clemente, Bahia, San Vicente, Chone, and Manta.  

There was rain.  It just never made it to the coast.

That all changed about seven days ago.

We have been able to call our friends and family back home using a Skype phone account.  This is a little different than the Skype you can use for free on your computer (or smart device).  Free Skype does not work on every computer (or smart device).  Also, our bank is not going to "Skype" when they need to contact us.  We pay $13.50 each month for Skype phone subscription to receive a U.S. VoIP phone number and unlimited use of that number.  We can call anyone in the U.S., and anyone who has our number can call us.  It costs them nothing to call us.

We use the cheap LG smartphone that we brought with us.  It is not an "unlocked" phone, and does not have an active cell phone plan. But that does not matter.  As long as we have access to WiFi, we can use this cell phone for calls to/from the U.S.

What is the downside?  There are only two downsides. First, we have to have access to WiFi. Second, we cannot use it to call anyone with an Ecuador phone number, and vice versa.

We have WiFi set up at our house and free WiFi is available at many restaurants, hotels, malls, and even some buses.  This is not a problem unless our electricity is out, or we are nowhere near a free WiFi hotspot.
San Vicente.  Across the bay from Bahia.

We have only lost electricity a few times and never for more than an hour.

That all changed five days ago.

We need to be able to make phone calls to people and businesses in Ecuador.  Skype Phone was not the solution to that problem.

If you are only going to be here for a short period of time, you can use a U.S. cell phone plan (Verizon, AT&T, etc) with an international calling feature. You may have read other blogs advising travelers to bring an unlocked cell phone, so they can use one of the local cellular carriers.

Why go to the trouble of bringing an unlocked cell phone? Because cell phones are supposed to be very, very, very expensive in Ecuador.

At least this is what we read and heard.

We agonized over this dilemma.
We are not short-timers.
We did not have an unlocked cell phone.
We waited until the first week of 2016 to get our Ecuadorian cell phone/number.  There was no reason to wait.  It was much easier than we ever could have imagined.  Lesson learned.

You can shop for just about anything in El Centro.
There are various options for obtaining local cellular service in Ecuador, but for us it made the most sense to buy a smartphone and use a prepaid (prepago) chip.

There are a number of cell service carriers in Ecuador.  The two main service providers are Movistar and Claro. We chose Claro, and bought a new Samsung Galaxy.  It came with an Amigo Chip that gives us 2 for 1 on every dollar we spend to recharge (recarga) data/talk/text.

In addition we have unlimited "Whatsapp", that allows us to talk and text for free with anyone else who has Whatsapp.  Total cost for the device, sim cards, amigo chip and promtional plan, was less than $140 USD.  We will probably spend no more than $10 per month to recharge data/talk/text (megas/voz/mensaje).

You can get a basic cell phone for less than $20 USD. You can get a basic smartphone for less than $50 USD.  If basic is not your style, no problem.  You can get the brand, style and features you want in a price range that meets your needs.

Blah Blah Blah
Good luck with getting "unlocked" cell phones in the U.S. anyway without paying a fortune.  I do not know why, but the cell phone carriers in the U.S. are the only ones that lock their devices so that they cannot be used with other carriers.

If you want to bring your cell phone, there are technicians in Ecuador that can repair and unlock most cell phones for a fee.  If you are in Portoviejo, go to El Centro shopping district.  Keep in mind that once unlocked it may or may not work on other networks.  

Note:  At the time of our arrival in 2015, Ecuador Customs allowed each traveler to bring only ONE cell phone.  There are also customs restrictions on other electronic devices, such as laptops, tablets, digital equipment.

Check the Customs Regulations before you travel.


By now you may be wondering, "is she ever going to finish the story about the rain, green mountains, blah blah blah?".

Yes.

Everything's eventual.

Then it started to rain.
Rain. Finally.

I cannot express how happy I was when it finally started to rain.  Not just drizzly little droplets that look more like mist and disappear instantly when the sun comes out.  Or worse, appear in the middle of the night when you are not even sure that it rained.

This was big rain.  This was soaking rain.  This was last Saturday.

So what if we miss a beach day.  There will be plenty more. Besides, all this rain is going help turn our mountain green. Sunday.  Still raining.  No problem.  Bring it on.

We have not lost power.  Our WiFi is a little wobbly but still doing what WiFi is supposed to do.

Midnight on Sunday night, or Monday morning depending on how you look at it, everything stops. No electricity.

No electricity means no WiFi.  No WiFi means no Skype Phone.

Everything is going to be okay. Our laptop was fully charged.  Our Claro cell phone was fully charged.  The power is never out for very long.  I did all of our laundry two days ago.  I had already packed our necessary documents into the laptop bag for our morning meeting on Monday.  Manta Monday.  Manta Monday with our Attorney at the Immigration Office.

Waiting on the Malecon for our attorney to pick us up.
At 7:00 am on Monday, the electricity was still out.  Our attorney was picking us up at 9:00 am. One more thing that does not work without electricity - the water pump.  We have bottled water for drinking and cooking.  The water for the rest of the house comes from our cistern.

The electric pump in the laundry room brings the water from the cistern to the kitchen and bathrooms.

Not today.  No electricity.  No showers.

My husband and I are resourceful people.  We have been camping many times.  We have been through our share of Hurricanes in Florida.  We have a gas stove and five gallon bottles of water! Camping showers done.  Stove top coffee made.  We are ready on time.

Still raining.  Still no electricity.
I felt like "Rainman" taking these pictures from the car.

My first trip to Manta and I saw almost nothing, except flashes of green things as I looked through the windows of the car. I assume we drove past farms, trees and mountains.  It was hard to tell through the rain and fogged up windows.  I also saw the ocean and big boats.  They were the gray things floating in the gray water, that I saw through the fogged up windows of the car that was driving in the rain.

Tamera was very tired and just a bit cranky from having had no sleep the night before.

Very cool whale sculpture at San Clemente beach.
I was also under a bit of pressure.  I was the designated translator between the four of us (who were in Manta that day to apply for 12-IX Visas) and our attorney.   Our attorney does not speak English.  I speak the most Spanish out of the three Americans and one Canadian.  Our attorney was there to speak to the immigration officials on our behalf and file the necessary documents.  But we still needed to speak with him.  There were questions to be asked and answers needed.  Anyway, I was the designated translator.

I will not go into any more details about our experience at the immigration office, except to say that the staff were all very efficient and courteous.  Our attorney was very skilled, very efficient and very nice.

The day was a success.  We should have our new tourist visas by Monday or Tuesday.

I gave the attorney our new Ecuadorian cell phone number.  He is supposed to call me when our Visas are ready.

The view from the rooftop terrace is especially beautiful today.

It is green.  Very green.





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Saturday, January 23, 2016

Tamera's Take: Octopus's Garden, Cats & Water Always Wins

Tamera's Take is about being here.
Are you ready?  I am.

Octopus Garden - Courtesy of Divetime.com
"I'd like to be under the sea
In an octopus's garden in the shade
He'd let us in, knows where we've been
In his octopus's garden in the shade

I'd ask my friends to come and see
An octopus's garden with me
I'd like to be under the sea
In an octopus's garden in the shade

We would be warm below the storm
In our little hideaway beneath the waves
Resting our head on the sea bed
In an octopus's garden near a cave

My Octopus Garden

We would sing and dance around
Because we know we can't be found
I'd like to be under the sea
In an octopus's garden in the shade

We would shout and swim about
The coral that lies beneath the waves
(Lies beneath the ocean waves)
Oh what joy for every girl and boy
Knowing they're happy and they're safe
(Happy and they're safe)

We would be so happy you and me
No one there to tell us what to do
I'd like to be under the sea
In an octopus's garden with you
In an octopus's garden with you
In an octopus's garden with you"

                      by Richard Starkey/Ringo Starr

A lot has happened in the past ten days.  So much that my husband and I have not had time to write anything new for our blog.

I guess you could say we have transitioned into the next phase of our adventure in Ecuador.  Well, that would not be an accurate statement.  "You" are not saying anything about it.  I am.

The problem I face is this.  I do not have time to write because we are so busy.  But because we are so busy, I have a lot to write about.
High Tide.  Very High Tide.

I am one of those "list" people.  Someone who is forever mentally organizing all those little bits of shiny junk that are swirling around in my head.  All the events, sights, sounds, people, places, sea turtles, birds, cats, paperwork, trees, sea turtle nests, flowers, shells, bands, waves, sunrises, immigration, sunsets, fruits, vegetables, bicycles, keys, cars, cedulas, stores, hats, lamps, driftwood, 12-IX tourist visa, pottery, garbage, gardens, bingo, buses, houses, rain, attorney, shacks, walls, bits of rope, more bits of rope, passports, sea glass, dead fish, live fish, music, waves, sand, and as much as I have tried to ignore them - small colorful rocks.

Every day, for just a moment, panic sets in as I try to find one of my four notebooks so I can make my lists.  Lists of things to remember for some future reference that I may or may not remember why. My husband is kind when he blogs about my lists,  He praises me for taking "copious notes". Though, on some level it must be annoying to him.  It is annoying to me.  Especially when I cannot find one of my four identical spiral notebooks to write those copious notes.

South Crucita Beach at the Cliffs
Then there are the digital photos to sort through.  Literally thousands of them. We are not crazy picture-takers by nature.

I am an amateur photographer relegated to using the camera on my Motorola Droid cell phone.  Sometimes it takes 30 or 50 shots on a camera phone to get 2 or 3 decent pictures.

All my SLRs are carefully packed in a bin, stored at my mother's house in Florida.  I would love to have them even though I know I would get very little use out of them.  Film is expensive.  Developing film is expensive.  Finding someone skilled to develop my film is difficult at best.  I could set up a dark room and do it myself.  I certainly have the space in our house.  What I do not have is the equipment - here.

You guessed it.  Packed away in a bin in Florida.


I am not complaining.  My husband does not have any of his bass guitars, amps, recording equipment.  They are not even packed in a bin in Florida.  They are in the hands of some other musicians.  Maybe in Florida.  Maybe not.
I cannot bring this home?

So this Raven (me) collects her bits of shiny junk and artistically (in her mind) arranges them around the house.  The need to create was so strong yesterday, that she built a very tiny bench - do not laugh - for shells.

She built it out of pieces of wood that had washed on the shore of the beach in Crucita.  Okay so the junk does not have to be shiny for a Raven to pick it up.  Just interesting in some way.

"Why is a Raven like a writing desk?  I don't know."

Right now a Raven is more like an Octopus. At least in the collecting of shiny bits of junk and bringing it home.

None of this is the reason we have been busy.

It is impossible for two people who have worked all their lives to go somewhere and do absolutely nothing.  Maybe for the first few weeks.

After that, the mind starts to go a little numb and I can actually feel the cogs breaking away from the gears.  I have the added disadvantage of not being able to do very much physically.

Writing this blog has been great for both of us.  We have a creative outlet.  We think the readers enjoy the stories, and hopefully we are providing helpful information for anyone who wants to visit or live in Ecuador.
Houses on the Cliff

Enter a new purpose.

Our friend Tamy has started a company of her own.  She works hard and is actually well on her way to having a successful business.  She has clients.  Probably more than she thought she would have at this early stage.  Tamy is very smart and knows that if she wants to consistently reach her target audience, she has to do some marketing.  She has already created a branding logo - which is fabulous. She is now working on her website.


Enter Tamera and Jason.

Finders Keepers
Tamy has hired a web designer, but she has to provide him with content, layout, and the mechanics of how she wants her website to work.  She is bi-lingual and her English is excellent.  However, as we have discovered while learning Spanish, everything does NOT translate.  I will give you an example.

Garage (garaje in Spanish).  Seems simple enough. Except that a "garage" in the United States is, well, a garage. It has a roof, walls, a roll up door and sometimes a window or two. The definition of a "garaje" is a private parking space, where a vehicle is stored. In Ecuador that means a secured parking lot or driveway.

Our property has a garaje. There is an eight foot high locked gate to secure the garaje. If we ever buy a car or motorcycle, we can park it in our garaje and it will be safe.

Make no mistake. It is not a garage. An American will see the word "garage" and think what we thought when we first read the description of our property in Crucita.

Translation.

I will give you another example.

Shiny Beach Stuff
We saw a sign today that read: "Deposito basura el receptaculo.  Cuide el medio ambiente." We know enough Spanish to understand that the first sentence stated, "put your trash in the receptacle". I did not even read the second sentence. The first one was instruction enough for me. Then Jason says, "what does ambiente mean?".

I had no idea.  If I had to guess I would say, "ambient". I turn on my cell phone to translate.  Sure enough. It means ambient. What does ambient have to do with trash? I am not sure. I translate "Cuide". It means "care". I translate "el medio". It means "the middle".

Put them all together and you get, "Care the middle ambient". That has to be wrong. It does not even make sense.

It is that translation thing again.

I type the entire sentence into the translator.  "Care for the environment."  That makes sense.

As a favor for our new friends, Tamy & Jared, we are helping her to create her website content. What else do we have to do?!  My husband Jason is the writer of the family.  I review content and agonize over sentence structure, word placement, etc.  He and I do not always agree.  We will leave it at that. All in all we really are enjoying the process; and helping our friends create a website North Americans will understand.
T-3 Passport Stamp

The best part is that we are learning from each other. Our Spanish is getting better every day. It has to. We are going to really need it on Monday.

When the tides are high, and El Nino is in effect, the landscape at the beach changes drastically. Devastatingly is a better word.

This is sort of true of our life right now.
Full Moon.  Check.
El Nino.  Check.
Extremely High Tides.  Check.
Water crashing over the Malecon every day.  Check.
FBI Background checks needed for Resident Visas.  No Check.
FBI Background checks first promised in 8 weeks; then 10-13 weeks.  Still No Check.


Waves crashing over the Malecon.  Huge rocks washing away with the tide.  Things washing ashore, then being dragged back out to sea.  Workers scrambling to rebuild retaining walls to keep the "cliff houses" from disappearing.  Water always wins.

No swimming against the tide.  No fighting a run-out.  You have to figure out how to work with the water.  Water always wins.

Tiny Shell Bench
For those of you who are thinking about obtaining your Resident Visa in Ecuador, you must read Paperwork, Paperwork and More Paperwork.  Then add this piece of information.

The turnaround time to receive your FBI Background Checks has increased three times since we started the process last year.  We should have received ours last week according the latest FBI estimate.  When they did not arrive, I called the FBI.  Yes, you can call the FBI.  My mother advised me to "light a fire under them".  Needless to say I did NOT take her advice.  Remember.  Water always wins.  Work with the water.

Water Over the Malecon.  Water Always Wins.
Our new estimate for receiving the FBI background checks is around the first week of March.  Our current 90 day T-3 Tourist Visa expires at the end of February.  I knew that there was a possibility that we would not receive our Resident Visas prior to our Tourist Visa expiration date.

I set aside the contingency money to cover the cost of obtaining the 12-IX Tourist Visa that allows us an additional 90 days to stay in the country while we wait for our Resident Visas to be processed.

What I did not count on was that in 2016 the cost of those 12-IX Tourist Visas increased significantly.  I also had not counted on the FBI taking so long to process our requests for background checks.  By the way the customer service agent at the FBI office said, and I quote, "we are just opening September 2015 mail now".   Okay I understand they are busy.

The final wave over the Malecon is that our Immigration Attorney can not file any of our documents for the Resident Visas until those FBI background checks arrive.

Monday.  Manta Monday.
Two of my very important notebooks!

We have spent the past few days organizing and copying the necessary documents to apply for our 12-IX Tourist Visas.  Our attorney is taking us to the town of Manta on Monday, so we can go to the Ecuadorian Immigration Office (Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Human Mobility). There we will fill out the necessary forms (with the help of our attorney), have our photos taken, then provide them with copies of our passports, the T-3 stamp on our passports, a financial statement, state background checks (thankfully we had those prior to arriving in Ecuador).

We opted for paying our attorney to assist us with this process, otherwise we would have to go to the Immigration Office in Manta two or three times, and we would have to rely on my limited Spanish vocabulary when speaking to the immigration officials.

We only have to go Manta one time with our attorney. The attorney will handle the rest for us.

I am very thankful we have an attorney.

My people better get this Visa thing fixed.
You could choose to do all this on your own, but I would not advise it.

The forms have to be filled out in Spanish. The documents have to be translated into Spanish.  Manta is 40 km away.

Three trips to an Immigration Office in Manta is not my idea of fun.  One trip is going to be difficult enough given my limited Spanish.  Our attorney does not speak English. I will do my best to communicate with him in Spanish.

I think it is time to take a break and go in search of a few more shiny bits of junk for my Octopus Garden.  The tide is low right now.  But not for long.

Remember.  Water always wins.


                              
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