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Monday, September 12, 2016

Tamera's Take: Scarves, Cats & Nomads

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Tamera's Take is about being here.
Are you ready?  I am.

Before I begin, I need to say that it was a compliment that my husband borrowed my signature tag line, "are you ready", in his last post.

So we move forward.  Now I have borrowed his.

Las Grietas, Isla Santa Cruz, Galapagos
It is 9:30 am Ecuador time.  That's UTC-5:00 for you international readers.  In Jacksonville Florida it is 10:30 am.  When Daylight Savings Time comes around on Sunday, November 6, 2016 at 2:00 am, Crucita and Jacksonville will be on the same time.

It makes me feel a little closer to my loved ones back home.

What does "trouble maker" mean?
As you have read in my husband's recent blogs, some of our loved ones visited us in August. During their 10 day visit, we were treated to a trip to the Galapagos Islands for four days. Aside from a few minor stomach issues and some clouds, our time in the Galapagos was amazing. Upon returning to our house in Crucita we were greeted by our four cats and a not so fantastic story from our neighbor who was caring for them while we were gone.  Apparently one of the little darlings decided to hide in one of the guest bedrooms (upstairs) while we were loading our luggage into the truck at 3:30 am. At 4:00 am, the upstairs rooms were closed and locked.  Our cats (minus one) were downstairs, along with their food & water bowls, and beds. Our neighbor had been given a set of keys, cat food and instructions (in Spanish), the day before. We were off for Guayaquil airport.

I will make the long and excruciating story short by saying, our neighbor Maria was worried after a day went by and she only saw three of our four cats.  I only gave her keys to the downstairs and the exterior gates. Luckily she knows our landlord. The house was opened. The wayward monster kitty was scared but okay...after making a mess that cannot be described.

In the future, I will never ignore my instincts - which told me to check the entire house for a "cat count" before we left.

One cool bag, one strange hat
On Pandora Radio, I am listening to: Madonna "Just Like a Prayer", which was released spring 1989. 

I do not even have to look up the year this song was released. I know the year because forever in my memory is my four year old daughter dancing and twirling around the house, with her hair brush microphone singing that very song.  She may not have known all the words.  She certainly did not know the MTV video that caused so much controversy.  All she knew was that she loved to sing and dance.  Especially when momma sang and danced with her.  Her momma loved that too.

People close to me know I love wearing scarves.  They are my favorite accessory.  I know every way to wrap, twist and tie them.  They seem to work for me.  In any season.  Any time of day.  What is not to love?! If it is raining - cover your head.  If it is cold - wrap around your shoulders.  Having a bad hair day or the wind is blowing - twist and tie around your hair. If you need a bit of color on a drab day - just pick one and go.  My daughter likes scarves too.  Although I think she is more of a hat person. She wears them well.

I do not see a many Ecuadorians wearing scarves in Crucita. No matter.  It is my thing. I do not feel the need to change that about myself.  Although I will say that I am now recognized by my fishing hat more than my scarves around here.  It is a simple tan cotton fishing hat. I have had it for nearly 15 years.  I wear it a lot.  I brought 6 scarves with me when we moved here.  I brought the hat at the last minute.

Two weeks ago I received all the confirmation I needed; in Crucita, I am recognized by that darn fishing hat.
The only ATM in Crucita

So here is what happened.

We needed cash to pay our utility bills and buy a few things from Frema's tienda.  Jason offered to walk to the ATM machine.  The ONLY ATM machine in Crucita. I do not try to use that machine any more.  It hates me. When I say it hates me, I mean that I cannot get it to work.  Jason has no problem with it.

The issue is that the machine "requires" your card (tarjeta) to have a chip in it.  Our Visa debit cards do not have chips.  Our bank and many others in the U.S. do not feel the need to put chips in their cards. I am sure it has something (everything) to do with the cost associated with updating software, and replacing machines.

When we first arrived in Crucita, we were told there was an ATM machine in our little fishing village. It is located at the COACMES building, which is a 10 minute walk from our house. The first time we tried to use it we realized that chip technology is alive and well in Ecuador. Good for banks and security. Bad for us. In order for us to use an ATM machine, we had to go to Portoviejo - 18 miles away.  There are ATM machines that will accept cards with or without a chip.

Bus ride to Portoviejo for cash.

We did this for 5 months.  Right up until April 15, 2016.  The day before the 7.8 Terremoto (earthquake) hit Ecuador.

Two weeks post earthquake, we were really in a difficult situation. No buses to Portoviejo. Even if there were buses running, it would not have mattered.  Most bank machines were not working. Most of the buildings that had ATM's were destroyed.  Portable ATM machines were set up, along with lines of people waiting hours to use them.

We mentioned our ATM predicament to a few of our friends and acquaintances here in Crucita and asked them what they thought we should do.  First they offered us money and asked if we needed food or water.  If we have not made this clear before, that is what it is like to be here in Crucita, Ecuador. People help each other. Not just in times of catastrophe - all the time.   No "once a year slogan" required.  A slogan that lost its true meaning so long ago, that everyone forgot.  I will let that one sit.  You will either get it or you won't.

We declined the kind offers of money and food.  We were not at that point yet.

We were told by two Ecuadorians and one Canadian friend that if you "keep trying", your chip-less card will eventually work in the Crucita ATM machine.

What?!

Stunned and with some amount of disbelief, we grabbed our cards and made the trek to COACMES (co-a-may). The Cooperativa building where the ATM machine is located.  Deep breath. Google Translate App open and ready on our cell phone.  The card slides into the machine.  It speaks to us in Spanish, telling us basically that the card will not work, and "please remove your card".   We remove the unacceptable card and slide it in again.  The machine speaks to us again. Please remove your unacceptable card.  We do.  But we try again; and again; and again.  After 15 or so tries, we see a different screen appear.  Press here for Espanol. Press here for English.  Woo Hoo!  English!!!  Please enter your PIN.  Those words never looked so good.  Please select Withdraw, Inquiry, Deposit.  Withdraw Withdraw Withdraw!!!!  Please select, Savings, Checking,....blah blah, whatever came after those selections I have no idea.  Savings please!!!  Enter the amount.  We enter 200.  We receive $200, in $10's and $20's.

Jason - Las Grietas, Galapagos Ecuador
Okay.  Back to my hat story.

As I said, two weeks ago Jason walked to COACMES, to withdraw cash.  He was gone a long time.  I knew this was not a good sign.  He returned about 45 minutes later with a look on his face that meant only one thing. The attempted transaction was not successful.  Two hundred tries not successful.

I asked him for my little blue zippered wallet that contained the bank card. He looked in his recently acquired bag from the Galapagos.  All Ecuadorian men carry these by the way.

No blue wallet.  He looked in his pockets.  No blue wallet.

My "wifey" panic sets in.  His calm standard response, "I know I have it; it's here somewhere".

Obviously NOT here somewhere, as my heart sinks, we make the trek together towards COACMES. We are now looking on both sides of the street, in the ditches, trash cans, etc.

I have already envisioned what must have happened.

On Pandora Radio: Adele "Set Fire to the Rain"


Sea Lions like the benches
After the absolute frustration of 200 attempts to make that card work in the ATM machine, Jason puts the near useless card into the little blue wallet belonging to his wife.  He then puts the wallet into his black bag that reads "Galapagos" on one side and "Ecuador" on the other. Walking away from the ATM machine, knowing that he and his wife will soon be on a bus to Portoviejo.

What really happened was he put the card into the blue wallet.  Then looking away he goes through the motion of putting the wallet into his bag and misses the bag completely.  The wallet falls to the ground in front of the ATM machine.  He walks home.

Fast forward.

We are nearing COACMES at break-neck speed.  I am wearing my tan fishing hat. I look up at a young man walking towards us. I recognize him.  He works at COACMES.  I know he recognizes me by that silly hat of mine.  Instead of the usual "buenos dias, or hola", he says, "tarjeta y bolsa azul". At the same time he is making the shape of a square with his hands.  He has just told us that they have our card at COACMES.

A bus ride to Portoviejo.

It would be the last bus ride with that debit card.  It expired September 1, 2016.  Where is my new card?  At my daughter's house in Jacksonville, Florida.  We are still working out the logistics of getting that card mailed to us from the United States.  That story to be continued in another blog.

La Ruta del Sol 
We have since retrieved our back-up card from our friend Tamy. She lives just outside of Portoviejo.  That card does not expire for another year.  We may only have one card, but at least we have a working card.

It is times like these that I feel more like a vagabond than an adventurer.  Maybe there really is not a difference. Its a good thing I have a lot of scarves and an awesome hat.

It seems to be the standard, basic apparel for backpackers, travelers and Europeans. We see a lot travelers who fit that description in Ecuador. Especially when we take trip on La Ruta del Sol (The Route of the Sun).  While we were in the Galapagos last month, I saw many more.  I fit right in. Minus the backpack.

Our move to Ecuador was my first real introduction to Hostels. They are everywhere. I knew what they were, but had never actually seen one.  In my ignorance, I assumed they only existed in Europe and used by teens and twenty-somethings who were trying to find themselves. I could not be more wrong. I cannot speak for other countries, but here, they are cheap, clean and a great way to save money on lodging while on your adventures. Regardless of your age.


I must admit that until a year ago, I owned a Frommer's Guide to Paris on $3 a day.

It was bought probably 30 years ago.  After time became dog eared, torn and revered with all the hope of a girl who thought she would get the chance to experience adventures.....one day.

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Saturday, September 3, 2016

Let's Do This - Multiplazas, The Duke Boys, and Bam Bam

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A local pharmacy will sell you Bactrim sans prescription.
And so we move forward.  The previous evening something happened that was not so good.  My wife, began having problems with her stomach.  She had a rough night to say the least.  The good news is Ecuadorians have a remedy for the 24 hour bug which our landlords clued us in to.  A quick trip to the pharmacy or tienda for two Bactrim Forte.  One will usually do but we buy 2 just in case.  You see in Ecuador no prescription is needed for antibiotics and you can buy by the pill.  Within eight hours of the Bactrim my wife was on the Physically able to Perform list. Guess what.  I got it next.  I however, am allergic to Bactrim. It is a strong antibiotic and I am allergic as I know because a prescription in the U.S.A. resulted in hives.  I had to live with the stomach bug for three days.

Then Dad #2 got it.  He lived with it as well.  Finally, Mom got it while we were in the Galapagos.  She finally took the Bactrim and had a mild allergic reaction (itching) but felt better the next day.  We did not eat the same foods and Brenda and Linda never got sick.  This leads us to believe it was not food, just an unfortunate bug.

Tamera and I have not experienced anything like this since moving here and we later found out a bug was going around.  My apologies to our guests.

And so we move forward again.  I talked before about all the wonderful gifts my parents brought.  I want to also mention a gift my cousin Brenda brought.  A Kindle Fire complete with full library.  It is very hard to get English language books here and Tamera and I both love to read.  We are very fortunate to have such a generous, supportive, and kind family.  By that I mean on Tamera's side as well as mine.  To us there is no difference between the two and readers should know that.

The Portoviejo Multiplaza
 And so we move forward yet again.  As my wife was not feeling well it was decided she should stay home and rest.  Today was the first venture out of Crucita and to Portoviejo.  There were multiple items on our agenda so this development was just a little stressful for me.  You see I rely on my wife for translation more than I should.  When we moved here my Spanish acumen consisted of asking the time, someone's name, counting to ten, where is the shoe store, and ordering beer; not necessarily in that order.



What will you find on the streets of Portoviejo?  The Duke Boys!
Now, I would have to drive in a large Ecuadorian city for the first time.  You see, we have almost always taken a bus or cab.  When my our friend Rob visited he drove and I navigated.  That was before the earthquake.  Now all our landmarks are gone (is that the General Lee?), there have never been many street signs, roads are closed, stop lights/signs are mere suggestions, and driving here takes some getting used to.  I would also have to translate in stores as well as at street markets, make sure the costs given are what is paid, and make sure our change is correct.

Thankfully, I was able to postpone a shopping trip to Picoasa until the next day when Tamera could help.  My family understood.

Supermaxi!
Our first stop was the Multiplaza.  Here you find Supermaxi grocery, our stated destination.  Supermaxi has more import items than other stores in my limited experience.  You will find TodoHogar which I equate to the U.S.A.'s Bed, Bath, and Beyond, KyWi Ferretero which is the U.S.A. version of Home Depot, electronics, toy, and clothing stores.  You will also find KFC, a pharmacy, ice cream shops, etc.  As at most large malls your car is protected by private security.


I don't mean one or two out of shape "rent-a-cop" types riding around in a golf cart or little truck.  They are large and in charge.  They are at the entrances and exits and in one mall, in towers looking over the entire establishment.  By the way, I have found it is impossible for one or even two men to keep four women together in a mall, or market regardless of country.  We explored, we shopped, we found bagels, we had a blast.

You will find a few things other than language and security differ in the stores here.  One is the lockers.  If you have bags or backpacks you must put them in a locker before you enter a store.  This costs nothing and the key has a security tag on it.  This tag reminds you not to forget your bags very loudly.  It is the same tag used on clothing to prevent shoplifting.  I think it is a great idea.  The second is the carts.  When you walk into Supermaxi there are red carts.  Do not take them.  Instead, walk a little further and take the silver cart.  Once you navigate the grocery store and have everything you need the silver cart gets emptied at the register.  As your items are rung up you push the silver cart to the side to be picked up and returned by staff.  A bag boy at the far end of the register counter has magically appeared with a red card in tow.  He bags your groceries and puts them in the cart.  DO NOT HELP!  It is his job and he will look at you as though your are loco just as he looked at my Dad.  Once you have paid it is time to go to your car.  The bag boy brings your groceries and loads them into your car.  The tip should be $0.25 per cart.  We came, we saw, they bought us a new coffee maker.

Sweeties from the local dulcerias!
And we move on yet again.  We head back in the general direction of Crucita.  There is a little roadside stand on the way.  It is made of bamboo and wood.  It is not a place most people might stop however, I was clued in to this piece of heaven by our friend Tamy.  I want the family to try ensalada de frutas. It may seem like just a fruit cocktail.  As explained in a much earlier post it is really not JUST a fruit cocktail as it is homemade daily and is the most delicious fruit I have ever tasted.  Ice cold and amazing.  Everyone has one.  I think they share my affinity for this tasty treat.  One cup is $0.25.

As we move on for our final time before heading home I inform my family that we are headed to Dulceria Bam Bam.  Bam Bam is located in Rocafuerte which is famous for its dulcerias or sweets shops.  Bam Bam was introduced to us by Tamy who says it is the best one.  So far I must agree.  We have tried others but Bam Bam is the best.

BAM BAM!
Dulcerias make a number of items but are not considered panaderias (bakeries) because they don't make breads.  They are specialty sweets shops.  Ice cream, cookies, cakes, candies, and my favorite; Rompope (rom-po-pay).  Rompope is like a caramel eggnog infused with what else?  Rum.  Now, recipes vary by each region so aguardiente can also be used as in the linked recipe.  I've only ever had the rum variety.  It is very rich, thick, and sweet.  Ecuadorians drink it not just at Christmas as we originally thought, but throughout the year.  It is consumed by the cup or in small shot glasses.  We also enjoy it in coffee and it makes an excellent ice cream topper.  The family gave the rompope mixed reviews but overall, the dulceria was an excellent stop.

As we walk into Bam Bam we see a huge glass display case containing all the cookies and candies made fresh that day. There are literally over a hundred choices and of course everyone wants to know what each one is.

I have no idea.  Really. I know what I've tried and like but I haven't tried close to all of these treats.  Twenty candies are $1.  I won't say how much my family spent because I don't know.  Suffice it to say we still have plenty left two weeks later.

Pumped with sugar highs we head home.  My wife is feeling much better, hungry even.  That is good because tonight we will head to Napoli for beachfront pizza.

Nothing like a slice on La Playa.
Napoli is one of two oceanfront Italian restaurants in Crucita; the other being Genoa.  Both are delicious as evidenced by my wife liking one best and me liking the other best.  Napoli sports a brick oven and excellent thin crust pizza as well as a full Italian menu.  At some point we will blog about the restaurant but suffice it to say everyone enjoyed a good meal including a langoustine pizza that it out of this world.  When washed down with Club (a South American pale lager), Sangria, or just a coke, the meal was simply delicious. This all takes place overlooking the Pacific from huge bay windows of this second floor restaurant. We had them open to feel the cool breeze of course.  The perfect end to a great day.  Chao!

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