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Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Happy New Year! (Part 1) - Grapes, Monigotes, and Magical Unicorns

Tradition.  Bob as Baby New Year.
2015 has been a year to remember.  That is for sure.  We all know the stress levels a person gets to when a life changing event happens.  Just one and you are in the land of heart failure.  My wife and I experienced our share of them in 2015.  Needless to say we were suffocating in a very real way.  We journeyed through hell to get here.

I will not go into all the details. We got all kinds of well meaning advice but the thing about advice is; you almost never know what you think you know.  In any event it was mostly given with the best of intentions.  We learned a lot.

We got a lot of help too and that will never be forgotten. Without that help, the final life changing event of 2015 might never have happened.  We might not have made our move to Ecuador.  That would have been devastating in ways I can only see now.  We did make it though.  We do miss our friends and family very much but we would not change anything. I would gladly go through it all again if the end result were the same.  Well, maybe not gladly but I would do it.

My Spidey sense is tingling!
The U.S. has its New Year traditions.  New Years Eve is what I like to call Amateur Drinker's Night.  Everyone tries to get as plastered as possible.  We make our New Year's resolutions. I guess getting plastered makes it easier to proclaim every way in which we will make our lives better and then, promptly forget them.  Lord knows I have done my share of "forgetting".  It is fun.  It is a way of letting off all the steam built up just trying to get through that year.  It is also a way of building yourself up for that next one.  We all know life is hard but we also all want to live it.  That takes courage all on its own.

At midnight the ball drops in Times Square.  We count down as one voice, "TEN, NINE, EIGHT", the excitement is palpable, "THREE, TWO, ONE!".  We all scream "HAPPY NEW YEAR!". There is a toast (lots really), champagne, kissing, hugging, tears of joy (or relief), and laughter.  There are fireworks and even gunfire.  Family and friends.  Hope.



New Years Day brings its own traditions.  In the South it generally starts with a few Goody's or BC powders. Large hangovers necessitate large coffees (I personally believe this is when the Bloody Mary is most important), and large breakfasts.  The most popular New Year's Resolution in the entire history of resolutions is generally uttered at some point in the morning; "I will never drink again!".  Coincidentally, it is also the most ignored.  Black Eyed Peas get cooked for luck through the new year.  I hate them so I do pintos with cornbread instead.  A pot of greens (I make collards) is cooked for wealth and prosperity.  I have found they both work as well as the Mark Zuckerberg Facebook giveaway but hey, it is tradition.
Shared!  I've always wanted  magical unicorn.

2015 resolutions,  This year I resolve to do everything differently.  I will improve my quality of life and learn new things.  I will travel and expand my horizons.  I will lose weight and exercise.  I will make new friends.  Check, check, check.  Check, check, check.  Check, check.

2016 resolutions.  More of the same please!

The traditions are different here of course.  I will change mine.  Not totally. Black beans instead of pintos.  Easy!  In Ecuador, we celebrate New Year's basically all week.   Christmas time is literally the beginning of summer here.  In Crucita it means the filling up of the town as people flock to the beach to begin their summer vacations.  The Malecon (translates to pier but here it means beach road as far as I can tell) largely deserted during the week when we arrived, is now a hot spot all week long.  Music is louder, people cruise the beach, drinking and eating establishments are full.

The gang' all here and yes, Freddy Krueger is too!
It is not an organized celebration yet. Vendors start making and selling monigotes.  These are paper mache effigies in the likeness of popular cartoons, famous or infamous people, and animals.  They represent the bad things that happened in the old year (Ano Viejo). You can get them everywhere.  All week long they become more prevalent on balconies, tied to cars, riding pillion on motorcycles, and in the backs of trucks. They are beaten, burned, and exploded at midnight on the last day of the Old Year to make room for good things in the New Year (Ano Nuevo).

People drink but they generally spend the evenings with their families and begin the actual festivities at midnight.  New Year's Day (00:00:01) is when the celebration begins.  Yes, effigies are beaten and burned and exploded with fireworks.  By doing this any bad "mojo" is taken from you and yours.  This house is clean.

12 grapes, 12 wishes, 60 seconds, GO!
Then there are the grapes.  Twelve to be exact.  One for every month in the year.  You must eat all twelve grapes beginning at midnight and finish them before one minute elapses.  Each grape represents a wish which also must be spoken prior to eating the grape.  Twelve grapes, twelve wishes, sixty seconds. Failure is not an option.

It is imperative you are given a brand new pair of underwear.  You wear yellow on New Years Eve to bring wealth. Red is worn for Love.  You aren't supposed to buy them yourself.  They must be a gift to work properly.

Men are supposed to jump over a raging bonfire twelve times for luck.  I will skip that.  They also throw coins in the fire for wealth and rice in the fire to bring an abundance of food. There is a fireworks show and we are assured they are not the little fireworks we see in the U.S.  I am not sure what to expect or what that means.  They have been shooting off "personal" fireworks all month.  Mortars and such are definitely legal.

Then there are the "widows" of the old year.  Since the old year is dead, men dress up as the old year's widow,  They walk around the town but they are not sad.  They are glad the old year is dead.  In Portoviejo they stop traffic and ask for change.  In the parish of Crucita they also sell small items (we bought Chiclets gum) for a pittance.  We are a fishing/farming village and the men look like men.  It is so funny to see them running around acting (badly) like women.

We bought Chiclets from this widow.
So here we are.  On the precipice of a new year.  It is exciting is it not?  I will give you some advice.  I give it with the best of intentions.  Should you find yourself on the edge, on a precipice, it may be best to jump.  Not always, not everyone, but for some, not jumping could mean the loss of something very valuable. The scary part is you may never even know.  So perhaps the good news is that life is full of cliffs, crags, peaks, and precipices.  There is always another place from which to jump.  Adios!

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Thursday, December 24, 2015

Tamera's Take: Gilligan's Island, Cats and Holidays

Tamera's Take is about being here.
Are you ready?  I am.

One day in a public speaking class at NYU, the professor had students compose an impromptu one-minute speech on this topic:  If you were stranded on a desert island, what one item would you like to have?  Sherwood Schwartz was a student in that class, and the question so intrigued him that it remained lodged in the back of his mind for many years.

Who is Sherwood Schwartz?  Sherwood Schwartz was a famed television producer and Emmy Award winning screenwriter, best known for Gilligan's Island and The Brady Bunch.

Bamboo House

I grew up with both of those shows.  With the exception of the "Hawaii Bound" episode, The Brady Bunch has nothing to do with being in Ecuador - nothing that I can think of anyway.   On the other hand, Gilligan's Island seems pretty close to home.
Ecuador and Jacksonville are on the same Longitude

We are not stranded on a deserted island.  But at times it feels like we are on an island.

As I have mentioned in my previous posts, to the North, East and South of Crucita is a crescent of mountains.  The village of Crucita is directly on the Pacific coast, and the adjacent farms are located between the village and the mountains.

The entire area is very tropical, even the farm-land.  The coconut trees are endless.

Ecuadorians drink Agua de Coco (in the U.S. we call it coconut milk) directly from coconuts with a straw, then scoop out the coconut with a spoon. Restaurants simply cut off the top of a coconut with the husk on, then in goes the straw.  Cold agua de coco is sold by the bag.


Watch out for falling coconuts!

When I was a kid I remember bugging my mom over and over until she finally relented and bought me a coconut from the grocery store.

For those of you who were in Jacksonville during the 1970's, you may remember a store called Pantry Pride.

It had already been shelled from the husk.  I had no idea how to open it.  This was not going to deter me.  I took a hammer and screwdriver from my dad's work bench, and began the task of beating this poor coconut.

My goal was to puncture a hole so I could get the coconut milk first.

This did not go well, for me or the coconut.



Many varieties of Bamboo (Caña de Bambu) are grown here in abundance and used by almost every family, in one way or another.  Caña is used to make furniture, fishing rods, fences, and even houses. There are many uses for coconuts in addition to a source of food and beverage.  Coconut husk is a fiber that can be used to make rope, rugs and fabric.  Coconut shells are a source of charcoal and can be burned as fuel.  They can also be used to send messages.

JFK used this as a paperweight on his desk in the Oval Office. 

In a dugout canoe, Biuku Gasa and Eroni Kumana of the Solomon Islands, located the U.S. crew of PT-109 on August 5, 1943.  The crew had been stranded for three days on an inhabited island of the South Pacific after being hit by an enemy destroyer, and presumed dead.  In command of that crew was Lt. John F. Kennedy.

Kumana and Gasa worked with the Coastwatchers, a network of agents based across the Pacific islands during WWII, tasked with keeping an eye on the enemy and reporting back to Allied forces.
Kennedy knew he somehow needed to get a message back to base if a rescue was to be organised, so he wrote a message on a coconut and gave it to Kumana and Gasa to return to a Coastwatchers station 35 miles (55 km) away.


Paper Stars
Tonight is Christmas Eve.

This is our first Christmas in Ecuador.  This means we will not be able to spend the holidays with our family and friends back in the states.  I know this is not easy for them. It is not easy for us.

We did our Christmas shopping online for the family, made phone calls through Skype Phone, and plan to video call our family tonight through Skype on our laptop.

Most of our neighbors have decorated artificial Christmas trees.  Next to their trees, they set up very beautiful Nativity scenes.  We do not have a Christmas tree or a Nativity scene.  After two trips to the Hipermarket last week, we still could not find any Christmas lights.  I was resolved to have some type of decorations, knowing that I would plan better for next year.


We have paper stars all over the second floor of our house.  It looks more like Cinco de Mayo than Christmas, but decorations are decorations.

Two days ago, after I made all those paper stars, we found lights (luces) in the little tienda around the corner from our house. They had decorations too. But those colorful paper stars have started to grow on me.

At least now we know where to buy lights and decorations.

Fiesta de Navidad!
As I am writing this I can hear a lot of festive music, including music I recognize from the states. The children have a holiday from school - today and tomorrow.  There are little parties being held all throughout the neighborhood.

Christmas Eve is when Ecuadorians celebrate Christmas.  The families gather all day for festivities, then open their presents at midnight.

I am not sure what will happen on Christmas Day.  I will find out tomorrow.



Jason and I were lucky enough to be part of a Christmas party on December 21.  Our friend Tamy and her husband Jared have a Fiesta de Navidad at their home for the children of the farmers in her parish - just outside the town of Portoviejo.  Tamy raises money and organizes this event every year by herself, and on the day of the fiesta (party) family and friends volunteer to help.  There was a lot of work involved.

Feliz Navidad!
Many of these children will not receive any presents on Christmas, except for the ones they received at this party.

There were over 250 children attending the party, along with a very entertaining clown who also acted as the MC (master of ceremonies),  Santa Claus, and the very famous well-loved Peppa Pig & his brother George!

Volunteering at this party was probably the best Christmas present we could have received.

Well, it is time for me to bake some cookies.

To all of our friends, family, and to everyone else who reads our blog,

Merry Christmas & Feliz Navidad!


Good Kittie!
Kodak gets his Christmas bath!  

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Saturday, December 19, 2015

Living on the Edge - Money, Shopping, and Tequila

Bienvenidos Canada!

Ah, Christmas time.  Back in the good old USA they have been shopping in preparation for the big day.  Some (very few actually) are done already as we are.  Some are just getting geared up for the push.  Some will wait until the very last second.  Then there are those who did it all in January.

One of the Malls In Portoviejo
Here in Ecuador it is probably much the same.  Yes, they celebrate Christmas here.  Yes, we hear all the traditional carols, though most times they are in Spanish.  There are sales in the stores, there are elves in the malls, there are Christmas lights, decorations and trees up everywhere.  What there are not, are mobs or rushes.  No huge lines, people being rude, pushing or shoving.  Shopping has not been a nightmare and I am profoundly grateful.  I do not like to shop and I especially hate Christmas shopping in the USA.



Don't get me wrong, I love Christmas, just not what you are compelled to do to "celebrate".  Seems like a good time to talk about shopping and bills though.

We have done a good bit of shopping since we got here.  Not for Christmas but to get the creature comforts we felt were needed.  I did not really want to do it.  We have read about so many things you can not get here that I was just a bit worried.  As has happened with most things here, I should not have been worried at all.
Buy at the HiperMarket.  Starting at $999.

First things first.  Rent.  Real estate companies do not handle many rental properties because there is little money to be made for a lot of work.  There is not much you can find on the internet.  There are plenty of rentals available though.  For Rent (Se Alquiler) signs are everywhere.  Our five bedroom, five bathroom house was not on the internet.  Our agent found our house for us by driving around Crucita.  We are a block off the beach with ocean views and within walking distance of too many restaurants, stores, and cantinas to count. Our rent is $700 a month USD.

Utilities.  We all hate that monthly electric bill and some of us also have a gas or oil (or both) bill depending largely on where you live.  Hot water heaters, air conditioning (in Florida), and heating your home will take large bite out of any Christmas budget. We read a lot about these costs in Ecuador prior to coming and I am happy to say they were largely true. Our electric, water, and gas cost us just a little under $50 for the month.  WI-FI  is another $25. Our Skype phone number and US calling plan is a another $6.50. Our one month utility total was $81.50 USD.  Many rentals can be had which will include utilities.  You just have to shop around. Short term rentals abound and a beachfront condo can be had for a month at the same price as our home.

Direct TV is pay as you go.  We do not use it but the cost for Bronze service including HBO and Cinmax is $33 a month.  We will have it soon but right now, we have plenty to do without it.

Budget $120 USD and that will cover all your utilities. Everything.

Beautiful Produce
Food.  A subject near and dear to my heart.  We have had to do a little bit of searching.  There are 3 main supermarkets (mercados) here.  SuperMaxi, which is a higher end market.  Southerners think Publix. HiperMarket is another.  They are the Walmart equivalent in that they have groceries and household items, including furniture, appliance, hardware and gardening sections.  SuperMaxi and HiperMarket are both located in actual shopping malls.  Aki is yet another market that we have not visited yet but we will.  Right now HiperMarket is our go to shopping experience.  The mall also has food court with  KFC and Carl's Jr.  So you fast food junkies can get your fix. They also have a few organic eateries and vegetarians can generally find something. Vegan not so much.  You will do better to cook your own I think.  These stores have all the baking needs, vegetables, meats, and canned goods you could want.




Peanut butter!
You may not find the brands you are used to but you can find the equivalent easily enough.  There is no reason not to purchase the Ecuadorian made or Latin American brands.  They are less expensive (no import taxes), fresher (because they are made or grown here), and you support the local economy.  If you live here, that is you too.

There are two prices for everything.  There is the price for Cedula carriers (the Ecuadorian national ID) and there is the US or English price.  You pay a percentage based tax (7.5%) if you are not a citizen or are without a Resident VISA.  As soon as you have your Resident VISA, you get your Cedula, These prices are clearly marked on the tags.  So far, we have paid no additional taxes.  The citizens who work at the stores have been more than happy to use their Cedula number, as they collect rewards points for use.


After many trips into Portoviejo, we have since discovered that we can find almost all of the items we need in our own back yard.  That is to say, right here in Crucita.  There is no "Super" tienda. There are many tiendas and street vendors.

Fresh herbs. All you want!
Vegetables are my favorite because they are not genetically modified.  They are not dyed or waxed. They have not been stored for months.  They have taste.  A five pound bag of oranges is around $2 or $3 in the supermarket.  That is about ten oranges.  They look like oranges are supposed to.  They are not dyed or waxed, meaning you are not paying to have them look unreal.  They are delicious.  Here is the really cool part.  In our town the vendors ride around on bicycles and small trucks.  They come by your front door.  If you keep your ears open, you can walk out and catch them.  After awhile, they get to know you and come by regularly.  We bought 2 large green peppers, 6 tomatoes, a bag of mangos, cilantro, 6 ears of corn, and a large pineapple- all for $4.  You can plant the seeds from them and grow your own.  There are so many fruits and vegetables I have never seen before.  It will take us a long time to try them all.  I am game!


Meat can be bought from the local stores but the fresh meat is best bought from the super markets.  I know there are butchers around and will find them but for now, $6 for six sirloin steaks, $2 for four chicken quarters, $3 for eight pork chops, and $3 for a pound of fresh ground chuck seems pretty reasonable.  Lunch meats, hot dogs, and other sausages are plentiful.

Fishing boats of Crucita
Fish is available in the supermarkets but living in Crucita, I do not buy from them. We have all the fresh fish we could want right here.  The fishermen will sell off the boat, there is the market on the north end that is jumping at 6:00 AM, and the south end also has a small market. Fish is brought in all day long.  Mahi, Sea Bass, Snapper, Swordfish, Sardines, Drum, in short, everything.  Mahi (Dorado) cost us $5 for three pounds at the actual fish market.

South fish market in Crucita.  Yep, our fish they are cleaning!
You pay a bit more there but you do not have to wait and they have everything already packaged.  Pacific shrimp is $5 a pound.  We have not had crab, lobster, oysters or about 100 other different kinds of fish yet.  You get the picture.  Like the vegetables, vendors come right by your front door almost every day.

Bakeries are plentiful,  Breads, cookies, cakes, you name it.  They are fresh and they are delicious.  We bought butter cookies form a vendor on the bus to Portoviejo.  $0.50 a package.  They were still warm and made with cane sugar.  They taste just like the Pepperidge Farm Bordeaux cookies for a fraction of the price.  We bought loaves of Pan con Queso (Bread with Cheese) on the bus too.  $0.25 a loaf.  They are about the size of croissants. You can buy sandwich bread, hamburger and hot dog buns, tortillas, or fresh baked at the supermarkets as well.  I have not found bagels, though cream cheese is available.  They offer a range of prepared food at their deli/bakeries as well.

Spices and oils are also plentiful and affordable.  I bought a bag of 100% saffron, 5 grams for $2.  A large light olive oil was $4.  Peanut butter can be had as well.  It is more expensive than meat. You can expect to pay $3 for a little bag or $9 for a jar.  The biggest surprise for me was spaghetti sauce.  $9 for a small jar.  Pasta cost next to nothing though so go figure.  I will make my own sauce from scratch and freeze or bottle it.
Hair dye.  Loads of the stuff.

Cosmetics were something we thought were hard to get, based on all of the blogs we read.  Not true.  Hair dye for days.  The same price range as the USA.  Walls of it.  Shampoo, conditioner, soaps, make up, perfumes and lotions. All available. All very comparable to US pricing and quality.

Clothes and shoes can be expensive, especially at the malls.  Payless Shoes has everything you see in the US however, prices range from $30 to $50 USD.  Shirts can be had from $5 on up.  Socks are $4-$6 for a set of three.  Underwear is $4-$6 per pair depending on what your style is.  Sunglasses and readers are $2 unless you want RayBans or the like.  There are plenty of designer stores if that tickles your fancy.  As with anywhere, mall prices are outrageous.  If you are willing to explore you can find bargains.  The flea market in Portoviejo is on the horizon.

Whiskey.  Yep.
Another item near and dear to my heart is alcohol.  I loves me some cocktails.  I am first and foremost a whisky man.  Neat is the way to drink it.  No other way.  Black Owl Whiskey can be had for $12 a fifth.  It is very good. There is a fire or cinnamon version as well. There are American versions available but I refuse to pay $50 for a fifth when comparable is available,  They have rum and vodka and with all the fruit it's a good thing.  I haven't seen Jager but this is a small village.  There are party towns close by and I'm sure you can find what you want.  Wine is another thing.  We have even had locals tell us it is too expensive which was surprising.  At restaurants perhaps.  There is a cork fee at many.  We found some wonderful South American wines for as little as $5.  With all the fruit available, sangria is amazing.  Tequila is an item easily found.  I do not see Jose Cuervo which is a blessing.  Horrible, Americanized tequila in my opinion.  Here you will find lots of blanco (white) tequilas.  Very smooth and delicious.  Then there is beer.  Pilsener is the brand here, their Budweiser if you will.

Vodka for my Lady.
You can get Budweiser if you like sex in a canoe (if you do not get the joke my apologies).  There are other "imports" to be had as well.  I like beer and the Pilsener is very good.  $1.40 a liter but here is the neat part.  $0.50 of that $1.40 is the bottle deposit.  You keep your bottles and return them to the beer truck when it comes around. They trade you out, and the beers are now only $0.90.

All of these items can be found in the supermarkets.  They can also be found in the tiendas of Crucita.  Get to know the locals and you will have the honor of drinking their homemade liquor. We had rice "shine" that was amazing.  I'm told they also use cane sugar but I have not experienced that yet.  

Pet supplies are another item we read were either hard to come by or expensive. That was, unless you went with sub par food. They have Purina products here for both dogs and cats, canned food, supplies such as litter, litter boxes, brushes, leashes, toys, etc.
Purina is here but there are better options.  

The local food is just like it is in America.  Some is not good, some is.  A little experimentation goes a long way.  You will not find Eukanuba or Blue but there are quality foods here. The cost is comparable to US pricing.

Next week we will tell you all about the Christmas party.  Many of the children in rural areas do not get much for Christmas.  We have volunteered to help at a party for a few hundred kids.  I can't wait. A lot of kids stare at the long haired gringo with blue eyes. Apparently, I stick out in a crowd.  I think we are going to have some fun!

We'll also start getting into restaurants and cuisine. You should expect it to be a running theme because as we're rapidly finding out, all the cultures and subcultures have their different takes on food.  That makes for gastronomical heaven as far as I am concerned.  As an amateur cook, I am loving the fresh delights we see every day.

Right now it is time to go to Calle Malecon and have some Ceviche (say-bee-chay) de Pescado (fish).  A couple of shots of tequila blanco sound really, really good at the moment too. Ceviche is becoming a daily dietary need I think.  That will set us back around $15 unless we have more than one shot.  Adios!

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Sunday, December 13, 2015

Twenty - A Pictorial of Crucita

So.  Here we are at post number twenty.  Post number twenty and we have not scratched the surface.  We arrived in Ecuador on the twentieth of November.  I could get cute and post 20 pictures but that would be selling Crucita short.  We have only been in 3 cities in the past three weeks, and one was Guayaquil.  It was 2:00 AM and we landed there, got in a van, and drove through it to get to Crucita.  It does not even count.  It seems a bit unreal anyway.

We have not even started talking food and drink yet.  We will  very, very soon.  Manta is on the horizon as is southern Ecuador.

I could write something about how to get here for a visit but, I think that is for another time.  We can say a lot with pictures.  We were asked for pictures and we have lots of pictures.  These are all taken by us.  No stock here.  Enjoy.  Adios!

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