Let's Do This - Multiplazas, The Duke Boys, and Bam Bam

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A local pharmacy will sell you Bactrim sans prescription.

And so we move forward.  The previous evening something happened that was not so good.  My wife, began having problems with her stomach.  She had a rough night to say the least.  The good news is Ecuadorians have a remedy for the 24 hour bug which our landlords clued us in to.  A quick trip to the pharmacy or tienda for two Bactrim Forte.  One will usually do but we buy 2 just in case.  You see in Ecuador no prescription is needed for antibiotics and you can buy by the pill.  Within eight hours of the Bactrim my wife was on the Physically able to Perform list. Guess what.  I got it next.  I however, am allergic to Bactrim. It is a strong antibiotic and I am allergic as I know because a prescription in the U.S.A. resulted in hives.  I had to live with the stomach bug for three days.

Then Dad #2 got it.  He lived with it as well.  Finally, Mom got it while we were in the Galapagos.  She finally took the Bactrim and had a mild allergic reaction (itching) but felt better the next day.  We did not eat the same foods and Brenda and Linda never got sick.  This leads us to believe it was not food, just an unfortunate bug.

Tamera and I have not experienced anything like this since moving here and we later found out a bug was going around.  My apologies to our guests.

And so we move forward again.  I talked before about all the wonderful gifts my parents brought.  I want to also mention a gift my cousin Brenda brought.  A Kindle Fire complete with full library.  It is very hard to get English language books here and Tamera and I both love to read.  We are very fortunate to have such a generous, supportive, and kind family.  By that I mean on Tamera's side as well as mine.  To us there is no difference between the two and readers should know that.

The Portoviejo Multiplaza

 And so we move forward yet again.  As my wife was not feeling well it was decided she should stay home and rest.  Today was the first venture out of Crucita and to Portoviejo.  There were multiple items on our agenda so this development was just a little stressful for me.  You see I rely on my wife for translation more than I should.  When we moved here my Spanish acumen consisted of asking the time, someone's name, counting to ten, where is the shoe store, and ordering beer; not necessarily in that order.

What will you find on the streets of Portoviejo?  The Duke Boys!

Now, I would have to drive in a large Ecuadorian city for the first time.  You see, we have almost always taken a bus or cab.  When my our friend Rob visited he drove and I navigated.  That was before the earthquake.  Now all our landmarks are gone (is that the General Lee?), there have never been many street signs, roads are closed, stop lights/signs are mere suggestions, and driving here takes some getting used to.  I would also have to translate in stores as well as at street markets, make sure the costs given are what is paid, and make sure our change is correct.

Thankfully, I was able to postpone a shopping trip to Picoasa until the next day when Tamera could help.  My family understood.

Supermaxi!

Our first stop was the Multiplaza.  Here you find Supermaxi grocery, our stated destination.  Supermaxi has more import items than other stores in my limited experience.  You will find TodoHogar which I equate to the U.S.A.'s Bed, Bath, and Beyond, KyWi Ferretero which is the U.S.A. version of Home Depot, electronics, toy, and clothing stores.  You will also find KFC, a pharmacy, ice cream shops, etc.  As at most large malls your car is protected by private security.


I don't mean one or two out of shape "rent-a-cop" types riding around in a golf cart or little truck.  They are large and in charge.  They are at the entrances and exits and in one mall, in towers looking over the entire establishment.  By the way, I have found it is impossible for one or even two men to keep four women together in a mall, or market regardless of country.  We explored, we shopped, we found bagels, we had a blast.

You will find a few things other than language and security differ in the stores here.  One is the lockers.  If you have bags or backpacks you must put them in a locker before you enter a store.  This costs nothing and the key has a security tag on it.  This tag reminds you not to forget your bags very loudly.  It is the same tag used on clothing to prevent shoplifting.  I think it is a great idea.  The second is the carts.  When you walk into Supermaxi there are red carts.  Do not take them.  Instead, walk a little further and take the silver cart.  Once you navigate the grocery store and have everything you need the silver cart gets emptied at the register.  As your items are rung up you push the silver cart to the side to be picked up and returned by staff.  A bag boy at the far end of the register counter has magically appeared with a red card in tow.  He bags your groceries and puts them in the cart.  DO NOT HELP!  It is his job and he will look at you as though your are loco just as he looked at my Dad.  Once you have paid it is time to go to your car.  The bag boy brings your groceries and loads them into your car.  The tip should be $0.25 per cart.  We came, we saw, they bought us a new coffee maker.

Sweeties from the local dulcerias!

And we move on yet again.  We head back in the general direction of Crucita.  There is a little roadside stand on the way.  It is made of bamboo and wood.  It is not a place most people might stop however, I was clued in to this piece of heaven by our friend Tamy.  I want the family to try ensalada de frutas. It may seem like just a fruit cocktail.  As explained in a much earlier post it is really not JUST a fruit cocktail as it is homemade daily and is the most delicious fruit I have ever tasted.  Ice cold and amazing.  Everyone has one.  I think they share my affinity for this tasty treat.  One cup is $0.25.

As we move on for our final time before heading home I inform my family that we are headed to Dulceria Bam Bam.  Bam Bam is located in Rocafuerte which is famous for its dulcerias or sweets shops.  Bam Bam was introduced to us by Tamy who says it is the best one.  So far I must agree.  We have tried others but Bam Bam is the best.

BAM BAM!

Dulcerias make a number of items but are not considered panaderias (bakeries) because they don't make breads.  They are specialty sweets shops.  Ice cream, cookies, cakes, candies, and my favorite; Rompope (rom-po-pay).  Rompope is like a caramel eggnog infused with what else?  Rum.  Now, recipes vary by each region so aguardiente can also be used as in the linked recipe.  I've only ever had the rum variety.  It is very rich, thick, and sweet.  Ecuadorians drink it not just at Christmas as we originally thought, but throughout the year.  It is consumed by the cup or in small shot glasses.  We also enjoy it in coffee and it makes an excellent ice cream topper.  The family gave the rompope mixed reviews but overall, the dulceria was an excellent stop.

As we walk into Bam Bam we see a huge glass display case containing all the cookies and candies made fresh that day. There are literally over a hundred choices and of course everyone wants to know what each one is.

I have no idea.  Really. I know what I've tried and like but I haven't tried close to all of these treats.  Twenty candies are $1.  I won't say how much my family spent because I don't know.  Suffice it to say we still have plenty left two weeks later.

Pumped with sugar highs we head home.  My wife is feeling much better, hungry even.  That is good because tonight we will head to Napoli for beachfront pizza.

Nothing like a slice on La Playa.

Napoli is one of two oceanfront Italian restaurants in Crucita; the other being Genoa.  Both are delicious as evidenced by my wife liking one best and me liking the other best.  Napoli sports a brick oven and excellent thin crust pizza as well as a full Italian menu.  At some point we will blog about the restaurant but suffice it to say everyone enjoyed a good meal including a langoustine pizza that it out of this world.  When washed down with Club (a South American pale lager), Sangria, or just a coke, the meal was simply delicious. This all takes place overlooking the Pacific from huge bay windows of this second floor restaurant. We had them open to feel the cool breeze of course.  The perfect end to a great day.  Chao!

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Transitions - The Waiting is the Hardest Part

Sanduches in El Centro.  No choice,  Sanduches.

There is a TV show I like.  No Reservations.  It is not a cooking show but rather, a kind of hybrid video travel blog.  The host takes you on adventures all around the world.  He exposes you to all the cuisine, culture, and people that make up this Mundo Viejo Loco.  He takes you to places you might fear to tread because the establishment may appear dirty, is off the beaten path, or is not the typical tourist trap.  He eats things you might fear to eat because it looks "gross" or it is something your culture says is wrong to eat.  As my wife referenced in a previous post, do not mistake worn for dirty.  You will definitely miss out.

(Glossary at the bottom,  Google is too hard right?)

The host of No Reservations is Anthony Bourdain, a renowned Chef, TV personality, and now, movie star.  He is not out for shock value though I suppose he might be shocking at times.  He is as I said, an accomplished chef but no prude.  He provides me with a great deal of inspiration.  He has great taste in music, is not afraid of a drink, and is what I would call a plain speaker.  He enjoys fine food. He showed me fine food is like rhythm.  It is where you find it.

In any event, I often find myself calling on my "AB" spirit guide when it comes to exploration.  That being said, lets talk about food.

If you find yourself in Ecuador you are one lucky person.  The diversity of cultures can and will make your head spin.  Fifteen kilometers can mean the difference in the way rompope is made.  One kilometer can mean the difference in how strong the aguardiente is, whether a shot is comforting or will melt your eyeballs in their sockets.  Ten feet can mean the difference in your ceviche.  Is it precooked on the stove/baked, has the Chef let the citrus cure the raw seafood as it marinades, is it spicy or mild, is salsa de tomate involved?  Five feet can mean the difference in leche de coco being delicious or being this side of well, sickening.

Rompope at the Dulceria Bam Bam, Roqueforte.

My wife and I are resolute in the idea that we will try whatever we can.  My wife is a pescatarian. She used to be vegetarian (AB has few kind words for vegetarians) but she now eats fish because her health demands more protein. This was a compromise on her part.  I will eat the carne, pollo, cerdo and yes, cuy dishes. Hell, I will eat every dish. Apparently, iguana is a dish served here, and yes, I will eat that too.  Wall of Voodoo should be proud.  My wife will concentrate on vegetables, fruit, and pescado.

As most of you know, we live in Crucita.  A seaside fishing village which is a parish of the city of Portoviejo.  Portoviejo is the capital of the Manabi province.  One of the twenty four provinces of Ecuador.  It is known for its seafood, arroz, ceviches, and viches.  Bolones are fantastic in all their different forms.  Plantanos are a staple, rivaling arroz.  Both come with just about every meal.

Mango con limon y sal.

These things are extremely important to know. Why? Because the food here is representative of the cultures in all provinces as well as influences from the rest of the world.  Everyone makes the journey to la playa at some point.  We have neighbors from Cuenca, Guayaquil, Quito, Banos, Montecito, and Manta.  There are Germans, Canadians, Brazilians, English, Americans, French, and Italians.  The food is influenced by all.

We have been to many restaurants already and will talk about them all in due time.  You do not need to go to a restaurant for a great meal though. There are all kinds of street foods here. Fried banana, plantanos, salted green mango in limon juice, pan de yucca y queso, mamey mata serrano (a hard to find fruit only available in Manabi for a short time each year) and the list goes on.

Then of course you can cook for yourself.  Plentiful fresh produce, butchers, fish markets, and herb merchants are literally everywhere.

Vendors come by your home.  Tiendas have things that make your local convenience store look inadequate, only because they are. If you are lucky your neighbors will cook you a meal or twenty. Forget luck.  Show them you respect them.  Learn their customs so as not to offend.  Speak to them. They love their country and their familia. They love people and are so generous it is amazing. Reciprocate and you will experience some of the best food, familia, and fun of your life.

Home baked Sea Trout

As you may have guessed, my wife and I are transforming.  Our blog is as well.  The tools you need to move or visit here have been given.  There are a few loose ends perhaps.  Write us and we can help.  We are moving on to an actual life here.  This is the first step in that transformation.  You can now look forward as we are, to cuisine, culture, education, and fun.  Below is a simple food glossary to help you understand what we now know.

Rompope (rum-poe-pay):  A popular dessert drink made with egg yolk, vanilla, milk and aguardiente

Aguardiente (ah-gwar-dee-in-tay) Sugar cane spirits, made commercially but often distilled at home.  Homemade is the best kind

Ceviche (say-bee-chay) - A seafood dish generally served with chips de plantanos.  There are many variations on this dish (fish, shrimp, mussels, crab) but just think seafood salsa.  Some is made from precooked fish, Some is raw fish cured in citrus juices.  I have only had it served cold, just like salsa

Viche - (bee-chay) - A hot, peanut based seafood soup.  Primary ingredients may be fish, shrimp, or shellfish.  Mixta is my favorite meaning all seafood.  It will also have vegetables including plantanos.

Salsa de tomate (sal-sah day tow-mah-tay) tomato sauce

Pan de Yucca y Queso

Limon (lai-mon) - Lime

Leche de coco (lay-chay day coco) - Milk of the coconut.  Delicious

Bolones (bow-low-nays) Plantain dumplings that resemble hush puppies.  They come in a variety of flavors and can be stuffed with cheese or cheese and ham.

Carne (car-nay) - Beef


Pollo (po-yo) Chicken

Best chips ever.  Tostitos are dead.

Cerdo (ser-doh) Pork

Cuy (Kai) - Roasted guinea pig

Arroz (ah-roz) - Rice

Mundo Viejo Loco (mon-doh vee-a-ho low-co)  Crazy world

Plantanos (plan-tan-yos) Plantains. A vegetable that looks like a banana

Pan de Yucca y Queso (Pan-day-yuck-ah e kay-so)  Bread of yucca root and cheese

Mamey Mata Serrano (Mam-eh mat-ah ser-ra-no) - A fruit I cannot describe well.  It is like having a sweet apple, cantelope, and pear in one bite.  There really are no words but it may be the best fruit I have ever eaten.

Tiendas - (tee-en-dahs) - Small family owned shops that are like a mini grocery store. Do not be fooled by the size.  They carry an amazing variety of goods and you can even recharge your prepaid cell phone or DTV.  Chao!  Adios is not a word used here.  We are learning.

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